DIY Darth Vader Foam Armour

hello everybody billy here from cosplay,lego and today we are going to be doing,the next episode of the darth vader,cosplay,and today we will be making his armor,there there are three main parts of it,there's the chest with shoulders,there is the cod piece and then there's,the shins,so today the first thing we'll be making,is the chest piece so,let's get started with that so to make,the chest piece first you're going to be,needing,a template and i just found this one on,the internet,this is what it looks like and i just,printed it out,made it the right scale and,yeah this is the right scale so what i'm,going to do,is i'm going to trace it out onto some,evi foam and i might actually have to,stick a few pieces together because,that's too big for just one piece but,i'm going to trace it out onto it,and i'm going to cut it out so let's do,that,and also when i trace it out i'm going,to use this silver marker just so it,will show up,on the um on the grey phone,so let's get tracing also when you're,cutting it out it could be handy to get,some pins,and stick them into the paper just so it,sticks,to the foam,like that just so the paper stays in,place while you're tracing it,so now that we've traced it down we can,take out all the pins,and now that all the pins are out if we,take off the paper,there we have the stencil for our,shoulder armor now we can cut it out,with some,trusty scissors i say,scissors i meant scissors,let's go,okay so i'm finding it's hard to get,into all the spots with the scissors,so i might switch over to using a,stanley knife now,oh and by the way when you're cutting,try and make sure you're cutting on the,outside line,of the silver line that we made before,just so,when we go back in with the sander we,can sand it down to the silver line,there we go all cut out,now that we've finished cutting it out,we can go on with some sanding paper,and sand down to that silver line just,until you can't see it anymore,okay so now we have it cut out and sand,ah,i forgot this bit okay so now we've,finished sanding it,it is time to get this the right shape,and by that i mean chaining it so this,goes around the shoulders,and it's all good so the way i'm going,to do that,is i'm going to get a hair dryer i'm,gonna heat it up,for a few minutes and then once i'm done,i'm just gonna pull it over,and then when it cools down it should be,the right shape so it's pretty,straightforward just kind of warping the,foam,so let's let's heat it up and let's do,that,so now we're going to do this little,shoulder bit of the armor,so i've done this little drawing and,this is the shape i'm gonna use,so i'm just gonna cut it out okay so,this is a good size,so let's trace this four times,onto the foam so now we have,two traced onto some foam let's cut it,out,okay so it should be ready to stick,together now,so let's give it a crack,so now to finish off these shoulder,pieces we're going to need some thinner,foam,now i'm just going to trace this piece i,made onto some thinner foam,and then twice and then cut it out,so now that i've traced them i'm just,going to cut them out and glue them onto,the shoulder pieces,okay so now that i've done that i'm,going to attach a little tab,to each side right here so then,i can attach it to the actual armor like,that,so let's do that okay so here is the,chest piece,with the shoulder pads on and i must say,it is looking really nice and also i'd,like to add,i put in a few support pieces in here,after i heated it up just so i could,keep its spot,a little better but yeah it's looking,really good so for the next step we're,gonna need the template again,so just laying it over here to show you,what we're gonna do,so what we're gonna do is we're gonna,cut,down this line down this line down this,line and the same thing,down this line down this line down this,line so,we've got this big piece in the middle,here,and two strips on the side and that,looks like this,and now with this we're going to trace,these,three pieces out onto some thinner foam,just like this,then we're going to glue them on to the,onto the torso armor so let's do that,okay so here it is with the foam on top,and it's really beginning to take shape,so the next step the next thing we're,gonna have to do,is i'm gonna draw some u-shaped things,right here which are on the stencil,and they look like this on either side,i'm just going to draw them on,and then i'll get back to you and i,think you can sort of get the picture,from that,so now i'm just gonna cut them along the,silver line,like that and i'm gonna quickly do that,so now i've cut out the holes here the,next thing to do,is we're gonna push these holes through,like that and then glue them so that,there's a little gap there,like that and do that on both sides,so i'm gonna go do that so now i've done,that,it's time for the next step and the next,step is we're going to need,this piece again and with this piece,what we're going to do is we're going to,cut off these two side bits here,like this and now we have just this,piece,and once again we're going to cut this,piece out of the thinner foam shapes,like like we did with these two and,we're just gonna stick it on,like that so let's do that okay so now,we've done that that's looking pretty,good,and the very last thing that's foam,related onto this armor,will be a small strip of thin foam right,here,so i'm gonna go do that right now,so in the next step for making this,torso armor,we're gonna need some glue just just,some normal elmer's,clear glue and what we're gonna do with,it is we're actually gonna,paint a layer of it all over the armor,just so when we actually spray paint it,um the paint doesn't just seep into the,foam,so yeah let's let's get painting this,glue on,okay so now that the clear glue has,dried we can go,over it with a primary coat of,rust-oleum,flat gray primer and we're just going to,whisk it across the surface and just,cover everything,so let's do that,okay so now we're going to give it a,coat of aluminium spray paint,now you don't need to cover the whole,thing with this just,these indents here on either side,and this middle thing but you can cover,the whole thing if you want,or you can just do those bits but those,are the bits you have to do because for,the other bits we'll be masking them off,and,you know doing stuff but we'll get to,that so we'll just i'll just go in and,paint all the bits that need to be,painted in this car doesn't matter if,you get it on the other bids because,we'll be painting over that anyway,okay so now it's time to mask off some,areas,so the areas that we'll be masking off,are these two,indents here and this middle bit right,here that's pushing out,so let's mask them off okay so now we're,gonna give it a coat of rust-oleum gloss,black,so let's do it and with this we have to,make sure we get the shoulders,and these bits here,okay so it's finished drying now and i,just peeled off the tape that we used to,um mask mask the paint and i must say,it's looking,really nice like the lines came out,really clean and you can see the blacks,and the,silvers and the blacks and silvers and,i'm not showing you the full thing,because i'll leave that as a surprise,for the final reveal,so next we're going to be making the,straps and the way that we're going to,make these straps is i've got these two,buckles that i've just had for a while,and what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna cut,out some strips of this,thin two millimeter thick foam and i'm,gonna glue,them to either one of the buckle,so each side here is going to have a,strip behind it,and then i'm going to glue them,in here and in here on both sides of the,shoulder armor,and then when i wear it i can clip it,together and,it'll sit on me really nice and snug so,i'm gonna go do that and then we'll get,a start on the shin armor,okay so now it is time to make the knee,armor,and once again i have a template for,this,and this is another one i found on the,internet here's the photo,that's what it looks like if you want to,print it off go right ahead,so um i printed this off and i stuck it,together,just to make it all my size and,now what we're gonna do is we're gonna,have to make two of them,so we're gonna have to trace two of them,onto this foam,so let's do it,once again we're going to be using the,pins and,the markers,there's the first trace done,and that's the second one done so now,let's cut them out,and for that i'm just going to be using,some scissors,so you know what i might have to switch,to the stanley knife because i can't get,the scissors through,okay so now we've finished cutting out,the two shin guards you know what's next,we're gonna go in with the sanding paper,and sand down the edges so let's do that,so now once again i need to get these,looking around just like the shoulder,armor,so i'm gonna go in with the hair dryer,and heat them up and then i'm gonna,mold them around her so let's go do that,okay so here are the knee guards again,and last time you saw them they didn't,have this string and this string's just,there to,keep its shape while it sort of cools,down from the heat,so what i've actually got here is i've,got,some elastic strips and what i'm gonna,do with them,is i'm gonna put them in here,like that one two three on both sides,so that's gonna be the way that my shin,guards actually stay on,when i'm wearing them and the way i'm,going to glue them down is with this,glue called our light,so i'm going to glue them in there on,both chin guards so i'm going to go do,that so now what i'm going to do is cut,this out,and trace these three pieces onto some,foam,twice so let's do that so here it is,i've cut out two of these,and i put a little bit bit of a bevel on,it here where i cut it on the corners,just so when i stick it together it's,kind of on that that angle there,so that's exactly what i'm going to do,right now i'm going to stick it together,like that,and i'm just going to make two of them,so let's go do that now so now we've got,two of these,um i'm just going to use some more,contact cement,and i'm just gonna stick them,right on top of the knees like right,there so,let's go do that,okay so the next thing we're gonna need,is this big long black strip,so i'm gonna quickly cut it out and here,it is all cut out,so what i'm going to do with this is i'm,going to actually,trace it onto onto some more of this,thinner foam,twice so one for each one fridge shin,guard,and then i'm going to glue it down onto,the thing,so let's go do that,so now i'm going to cut 12,little square things out of this thinner,foam to go,like three on on each side,of both of both shin guards so,yeah i'm gonna i'm gonna do that real,quick,so now the next thing i'm going to do is,pretty similar to what we,actually did with the chest armor and,we're going to draw a u-shape,once again and then we're going to push,it through just so it's like a little,a little lip sort of thing so,let's go do that and i've also got this,for reference right here,so yeah let's cut this out and push it,through,okay so now we're gonna give the shin,guards a coat of flat gray primer just,like we did with the shoulder armor,now the primer has dried um you may,notice i attach these straps onto it,and that's just because i've ditched the,elastic idea and i'm going to go with,velcro now so i'm going to attach velcro,onto these straps,and then the way i'm going to put them,onto my legs is looping the brown and,putting the velcro together,and to paint it once again we will be,using the rust-oleum gloss black,and yeah nothing much to say so let's,let's paint these,so now we're going to make the cod piece,so what i've done,is i've made this stencil and you can,see it on screen right here,and what i've done is it printed off,made it the right shape and i'm just,going to trace it onto some of the,leftover foam from when we made the,chest,armor and i'm just going to,cut this out and trace it onto this and,then i'll get back to you,okay so here we have it traced out,so now what i'm gonna do is you know go,on with the stanley knife and i'm gonna,cut it out,okay so the next thing we're going to be,doing is sanding it,so the next step involves the the hair,dryer again,so what we're going to do is we're going,to heat it up right here,around where that is and then,we're going to grab just any round thing,and we're going to try and warp it to,get that round shape,because if you look at it in the actual,movies it has that round shape,so yeah let's try and replicate that,okay so now it's sort of now we've sort,of warped it a bit,what we're going to do is we're going to,get some of this thinner foam,and we're going to glue it here,we're going to make it so that two and a,quarter,inches are revealed up here because,that's the length of darth vader's belt,and then we're gonna do a big loop of,two and a quarter inches,all the way around and then yeah we'll,do that,so now for the next thing i've printed,out this stencil for the,for the rectangular shape thing in the,middle i'm gonna cut this out,then i'm gonna trace it onto the cod,piece and cut it out,okay so now we have this piece cut out,we don't want to get rid of this we want,to keep it,we just want to sand both of them we,want to send the outside of this,and the inside of this so let's go do,that okay,so now what we're going to do is we're,going to get some black,thin foam we're going to glue it behind,the cod piece like that,and cut out the sides so you can't see,it and then we're going to glue this one,on top like that,so let's go and do it,okay so this first strip with two,two and a quarter ah inch of foam at the,top and just some,excess stuff at the bottom this first,one we're going to glue it on the back,side,of the back side of the cod piece,like that so i'm just going to quickly,do that,so now what i'm going to do now that,this is glued on i'm going to get some,scraps of foam so it's just any foam,glue it here,and then i'm going to get the next piece,and glue it like that,and do that on either side and then just,do it around and around,until it can wrap all the way around,your waist,okay so now what i'm going to do is i'm,just going to put a little bit of tape,on the back of this where the joints are,just to give it a bit more,just so it's a bit more stronger so i,just tried it on and i've marked some,points where,it meets each other so what i'm gonna do,is i'm gonna go,go stick some velcro there and stick it,on the other side as well and then when,i put it on,it can i can use the velcro and it will,stay on,so i'm gonna do that and here's the,velcro that i'm using,so let's stick it on and now it's time,for the final reveal,so thank you very much for watching this,video i hope you enjoyed watching it and,i hope that if you're making your own,darth vader cosplay then this helps with,it,if you're wondering about the belt that,i was wearing that's actually the belt,that i made in one of my previous videos,and you can watch that up here or in the,description below,you decide but go watch it if you want,to go make the belt as well,in reflection i think my armor turned,out really good i mean i'm definitely,going to keep on upgrading them and,trying to,make them look even better but for a,starting set of armor i think this is,this is very sufficient so thank you,very much for watching this video,hope you enjoyed it hope you have a,great day and i'll see you all in the,next one,good bye,you

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Make your own Darth Vader helmet out of CARDBOARD!

Make your own Darth Vader helmet out of CARDBOARD!

I hate you T-Rex,The T-Rex, is it safe is it all right?  It seems in your anger you killed it.  ,Oh I couldn't have it was alive I felt it!,NOOOOOOOOOO!!!,Hey I'm Raphael I used to work in the movie  industry as a professional steadicam operator  ,until I discovered that i could make pretty  ,much any of the movie props I'm so  passionate about using only that,Isn't that incredible?!,in today's video I'm gonna show you how to turn  this into this,this into this,and this into this,and of course you'll find a list of everything  I use in the description box below as well as  ,all templates necessary for you to  make this impressive helmet yourself   at home,Do it!,Now let's  jump right into the tutorial,the first thing to do is cutting out the templates  ,that you'll find in my shop  in the description box below,then using a regular glue stick  glue them on your cardboard,next using a precision knife a box cutter  or very sharp scissor cut out the pieces,you'll have to do that for all the following  pieces of this tutorial,start by cutting  the piece number 1,crush the conjugations  with your fingers to make it more malleable,and close the notches with glue to  do so I used a cheap 15w hot glue gun  ,don't forget that you'll find all products and  tools that I use in the description box below this video,cut the piece number 2 the same way  crush the corrugations and close the notches,and glue this edge on the piece number 1 here,cut the pieces number 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 again  smash the corrugations and close the notches  ,glue the edges of the piece number 3 here the  piece number 4 on the right here glue the pieces  ,number 5, 6 and 7 together and glue the two  elements together on the edges of your here,next using a thicker cardboard  cut to pieces number 8,   9 and 10,and of course crush the corrugations  and close the notches,and glue them together on the edges that way,next glue the two  elements together starting by the front,doing so pay attention to leave the excelling  thickness of the cardboard on the outside here,next using the reversed pieces make  another one exactly the same way  ,and glue them together that way,glue the piece number 11 in the  middle here the piece number 12   on the top,and another piece number 12 in the  middle of the back here and cut what exceeds,next cut the pieces number 13, 14, and 15,crush the corrugations to make them curvy,and glue them on top of each other that  way,cut the piece number 16 smash the corrugations and close the notches,and glue these two edges together,so that you end up with a curvy tube  like that glue this one on the top here  ,using the piece 17 make another  one and glue it underneath here,next cut the pieces number 18, 19 and  20 and glue them over here that way  ,next cut several squares of cardboard like  that and glue them all over the back here  ,afterwards using the reverse  templates make the reversed side of it exactly the same way,and glue  both elements together in the middle,by the way are you watching the new obi-wan  kenobi series and i think it's pretty good  ,what do you think do you like it tell me in the  comment section below,Next cut the pieces 21, 22 and 23,crush their corrugations to  make them curvy and glue them together on their edges that way,and of course using  the reversed pieces make the reversed side the same way,and glue them together  in the middle here,next using your precision knife remove the first layer of  corrugations from this triangle over here,cut the piece number 24,and glue it in the middle here doing so pay  attention to leave a small space in the front  ,glue the piece 25 on the side here,and of course glue the reversed  piece on the opposite side,next cut the pieces 26, 27 and 28 crush the  corrugations and close the notches and glue  ,them together on their edges that way cut the  piece 29 with your fingers make it curvy  ,and glue the two edges here together next bend  the bottom of it strongly to make an angle,to end up with a shape that looks  like that cut the piece number 30  ,smash the corrugations and close the  notch and glue it underneath here,next cut the piece 33 and glue it  inside the hole on the edges over here,and glue the whole element underneath  over here next cut the pieces 31and 32,bend strongly these edges with your fingers,and glue them together that way  ,and glue the element in the openings here,and  of course make the reverse side of it exactly the same way,using the reversed template  and glue them together on this edge here,afterwards cut the pieces number 34, 35, 36 and 37,glue them on top of each other and glue the whole element on these two edges here,against the front  edge over here,glue the piece number 38 underneath here,the reversed one on the opposite side the  same way,and the piece 39 in the front here,next cut the piece 41 make it curvy with your  fingers and glue it on the nose over here  ,then glue the piece number 40 in the middle  here flush with the edge of the piece 41,and glue the pieces 42, 43 and 44 on top of  it that way,then remove the first layer of corrugations from the middle of the piece 45,and  glue it underneath the nose over here,afterwards apply a thin layer of a cheap modeling paste  everywhere,to do so I used silicone spatulas the same kind you would use to make a cake,that's gonna help you to smooth out all the imperfections of the cardboard,if you don't have  modeling paste or you just don't want to buy some,just skip that step and jump to the next one at  the time stamp here which is applying the paper,the modeling past i'm applying here is going to  help me to make the surface of my helmet smoother,but to be totally honest you'll end up with a very  similar result without even using it,so why are you doing it you may ask?,Well you know me guys i'm  a freaky perfectionist and I've been waiting to make this Darth Vader helmet for ages,so I wanted  to make it as screen accurate as possible that's just the reason why,but as i said if you don't  want to do that just skip to the next step,if you decide not to use modeling past just crush  the sharp edges with your fingers to make them slightly smoother,with the paper you're going to  apply later in this tutorial,it should be enough for you to get a quite smooth result,next with a  little bit of sandpaper smooth out all surfaces,so that you end up with very smooth surfaces  everywhere,then make a mix of white glue and water,Tear up pieces from a brown paper  the same kind you receive within   your Amazon deliveries for instance,soak  them in your mix of white glue and water,crush them slightly to make them more  malleable with your fingers remove what exceeds  ,and apply them on the entire helmet,don't hesitate to use small tools  like that,to apply the paper more efficiently in the smallest areas,so that you end up with a  very smooth surface like that  ,and of course repeat this whole process  for the three outer part of the helmet  ,then using thin uncorrugated cardboard the  same kind you receive from amazon for the   small items for instance,cut a few pieces like  that one,and glue them on top of each other using white glue or any type of PVA glue,so that  you end up with a thick piece of cardboard like that,we're gonna use it to cut all the small  pieces from the templates 24, 25, 26 and 27,glue the pieces from the  templates 24 on the mask that way  ,and the reversed pieces from the templates  25 on the reversed side the same way,then from the same cardboard cut  several stripes like that and  ,glue them into this opening here to make the grid,glue the first one on the bottom  here and six smaller ones over here  ,next cut several slices from that  same thin uncorrugated cardboard  ,and glue them on the back here to finish the grid,and cut what exceeds,next make another thick stacked cardboard  break it in several smaller pieces like that  ,and glue them on top of the mask that way and  then glue several smaller ones on top of them  ,to end up with something that looks like that  ,afterwards glue the small pieces from the  templates 26 and 27 on the neck elements that way,then cut another stripe from  a another stacked cardboard  ,break it in several small squares and  glue them all over the back of the neck,also wrap two pieces like that on the  tips of the tubes here and add thin  ,stripes like that on top of them and of  course do the same for the opposite side  ,next glue these small pieces from the templates  26 on the front part of the neck element here  ,then the same way you did for the mask make a  small grid here,next using the same brown paper you use to cover the mask,cut pieces that looks  like that roll them up tightly with your fingers,and soak them in the mix of white  blue and water you made before  ,make another one the same way  and glue them together that way  ,then using grey paper the same kind you get within  your Amazon deliveries as well,make another roll like that cut a thin slice from it,with your  precision knife sharpen the tip of the roll,glue the small slice back on it,cut it over here and glue  it on the tip here that way  ,and then glue this whole element on the side  over here,and of course make another one for the opposite side,then using that same grey paper  make another thinner roll like that,shape it with your finger to make it a little bit curvy and glue  it on the side here,then still with grey paper make a large roll like that sharpen slightly  the tip of it with your precision knife,cut it at about two centimeters from the tip and  glue it on the tip here,and of course you guess it make another one for the opposite side,from that same thick roll cut a piece that looks like that glue it over here and glue another one on the opposite side,next make several more rollers in different size like that,as well as  more stacked pieces of cardboard like this one,and use them to add as many details as you can  everywhere,to do so again don't hesitate to have a look on the reference pictures that are linked  in the description box below with the template,also don't hesitate to add some design  with a regular pencil like this one,don't hesitate to use your hot glue gun  to make some large wiring on the mask,just cover them with brown paper afterwards,don't forget that all the templates that you need to make this helmet yourself at home are  in the description box below,as well as the tools and products that I use,also add a small  piece of grey paper on the nose over here,next glue small magnets like this one to connect the  different parts of the mask glue two of them here,a few more over here,of course do the same on the opposite side and  glue the opposite magnets on the neck element  ,and do the same here and here to connect the  back part of the neck,stack up the magnet to make the connection stronger if you  need to,then glue a few larger magnets on the top of the mask in the middle hole  here,stack opposite magnets on top of them,cut and glue a small circle of cardboard on top  of them pour a large quantity of hot glue on it,and glue it inside the dome like that,next using the pattern from  the templates 24 cut a piece   like that,close the notches  and make a hole at eye level,and glue on it a piece from a one-way glass  film that you can buy quite cheaply from Amazon,and glue it behind the mask to make the visor,and next I applied two layers of a  glossy vanish on the entire construction  ,to make it more sustainable and shiny of course,I'm very pleased with it if you feel  like you could use more extended  ,visuals about a specific step that I  may have shown a little bit too fast  ,I want to let you know that I also recorded  the entire construction from start to finish  ,and I made a very long time-lapse video  available for the members of this channel  ,down in the description box below,and if you  want to watch more videos about how to make props out of cardboard like,the Stormtrooper helmet  the entire Mandalorian armor,and many more things from the Star Wars universe click this playlist  right here,and of course subscribe if you are not already and hit the notification bell,so you  don't miss my next epic build with cardboard,Thank you so much for watching and I see you in the  next one,I don't know what to do with my hands

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Building a life-sized DARTH VADER replica for $100

Building a life-sized DARTH VADER replica for $100

hello everybody and welcome back to my,channel I'm saving this balloon since,like Valentine's Day to dude I tell you,what I want what I really really want so,tell me what you want what you really,really want in today's video we are,talking Star Wars specifically Darth,Vader's specifically derth me or,mannequin whoa my hands getting a little,woozy so I am always on the lookout for,life-size mannequins life-sized props,and statues and I'm actually very,jealous of my brother my brother,actually has a life-size mannequin of,Darth Maul and Yoda so I always have my,eyes peeled,looking for something life-size like,this let's get real Darth Vader is,probably one of the coolest if not the,coolest character in the Star Wars,universe,so obviously finding a life-size of,anything of him it's gonna be very very,pricy statues and mannequins of Darth,Vader can go anywhere from you know two,thousand dollars all the way up to like,$15,000 so instead of waiting around for,a life-sized Darth Vader to be magically,priced at an affordable $300 which I'd,be willing to fork out for a life-sized,prop replica of him I actually thought,hey why not just wait for a really,really cool costume of Darth Vader and,turn him into my own mannequin finally,after waiting and waiting I found the,best best deal that I've possibly ever,found on one of the you sites in my city,it was a box troubies Revenge of the,Sith edition of the supreme,Dorothee Vader costume and he even came,with a red Darth Vader force effects,lightsaber and all of this was just $100,Canadian I mean even like the lightsaber,Oh Louis $200 Canadian online when I saw,that out online I didn't even like,bother it or even reply I'm just like,I'm coming over right now these rubies,supreme Darth Vader costumes average a,minimum of like $1,000 Canadian online,actually called up my dad to help me,with the base of the mannequin so then I,could just kind of pack paper around it,and saran wrap it so it's kind of like a,body okay guys let's cut the chitchat,and get building so here is the helmet,it is so big on me I look like Lord,helmet from Spaceballs here is the faux,leather bodysuit we also have the chest,armor with the long heavy cape a cross,pad we have the utility belts that also,like makes sounds and lights up have a,nice pair of gloves a pair of shin,guards also the other kind of secondary,outer Cape we also have is chess box and,we have a black bellick lava so here is,the base of the mannequin that my dad,was so amazing enough to design for me,so essentially it's just a wooden heavy,base and two thick PVC pipes with,notches in the top and holes to allow,for smaller thinner PVC pipe to just be,put there in the middle and screwed in,and on the top we just put two wooden,poles up there to kind of balance the,head out and give a little bit of,rigidity so yeah I'll just stop talking,now cuz this is pretty self-explanatory,enjoy the build,I found these rubbery shoes from the,thrift store for a few dollars so I just,cut a line at the very back of the shoe,all the way to the middle and I just,kind of cleared out that whole bottom,area just wrapped it around the base of,the statue legs securing it with tape in,the back so this is just a condensed,piece of cardboard packing the material,and I just stuck it there where his head,should be packed it up with some packing,paper and Saran wrapped it and then I,took the bellick baba instead of putting,it on the right way I put it on,backwards because when you put his,helmet on you can kind of see the paper,through it so I didn't want that to show,so I just turned that balaclava,backwards and he done and in fact this,guy turned out amazing man I don't know,how tall he is guys like 6 foot 7 foot,something I don't know this guy he's,just made out of paper he's just made on,a packing paper he's got a little,cellophane and a little packing paper,head up there with a little piece of,cardboard but seriously this guy just,turned out amazing I mean I'm really,really pleased and the cool thing about,this is that it's like multi-purpose I,could totally use this costume I can,just take the costume off and just,repack it again so it's not a big deal,or you know if I want to have like a,dance party and make it look like this,people at home so robbers don't rob me,you'd better get a D with somebody,seizures,oh is that clip done I also got this,lightsaber that comes with its own stand,and in the future I could I don't know,maybe like put it in his hand or,something like that I think that'd look,pretty cool like see if you guys have,any suggestions of how I can maybe put,this lightsaber with the mannequin I,don't really know how to do that because,this is so happy and he's like made out,of paper the things that I definitely,will probably change in the future or,add so you see his hands here they're,kind of just like like I can't really,move them so in the future I will,probably be making like a kind of a,little wire apparatus in there so I can,change his hands maybe do like a come,here kind of thing you know this makes,sounds and lights up but the bat but the,screw is stripped so I can't really open,it yet until it just get like a little,bit of help opening that e board the,wooden board I will probably end up and,maybe painting that black I might change,his shoes in the future I really like,that menacing those shoes it kind of,looks like outside shoes that like an,elderly person would wear when they're,like going outside to the garden or,something like that so if you guys are,ever looking for an alternative to a,life-size statue life-sized mannequin,prop replicas whatever try to maybe be,on the lookout for an awesome awesome,costume and just building your own base,for it you can basically use this method,with anything masked so you can do you,know like stormtrooper clone trooper,snow trooper you could do even things,like Spartans from Halo you can,literally do any sort of masked,character thank you guys so much for,watching this video I hope you learned,something or you got maybe inspired to,maybe be on the lookout for some,costumes and stuff and thank you so so,much to my dad he's always so awesome,you know making stuff for me or if I,need some help you know building,something he's so amazing thanks dad,so please remember to Like comment and,subscribe I come up new videos every,Wednesday and Saturday unless if I get,invited for Chinese food so thank you,guys so much for watching and stay,legendary

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Continue the next third section about diy darth vader costume

How to make the Darth Vader Chest Box to clear with the 501st Legion

How to make the Darth Vader Chest Box to clear with the 501st Legion

hey my name is chris,cosplay vicar i'm a part of the 501st,legion here in the uk the uk garrison,and in the uk garrison i,am darth vader empire strikes back,uh storm trooper from a new hope,storm trooper from the last jedi uh,death trooper,from rogue one and a ghostbuster as well,as an imperial officer a whole,collection of cosplays,and one of the things i love about,cosplay is not just,buying stuff off the shelf but making it,myself and knowing how it all goes,together and how it all fits together,and that was no different when i came to,build my darth vader now as i built my,darth vader i realized,that there isn't tons of help out there,there's lots of neat videos where people,have bought,a uh chest box or,some shins from someone who makes a kit,and that that kit then is what they've,put together to make their,uh darth vader now let's be honest they,look,amazingly good they are so so so good,there are so many great kits out there,from dark side,of automatic uh props they've been these,amazing chess boxes,i just could not afford to pay 250,pounds,plus shipping uh import tax to get one,of those chest boxes,here in the uk uh so i have to start,thinking creatively so one of the things,i want to do with these videos is,show you how to be able to put together,these items for darth vader,not at a budget it's still costly,uh but trying to reign in the price a,little bit,and you know darth vader is one of the,most expensive costumes that you can,build if you want to go for screen,accuracy so what i want to do with this,video is walk you through the chest,box how to build the chest box,and try to do as much work as you can,and the key thing is,if you go and buy something that,somebody else has made,the cost is high you put less time into,it,the only way of bringing that price down,is if you do more of the work,more work you do the less the cost will,be,and that's certainly the direction that,i wanted to go in,uh in my last few builds my death,trooper,particularly i got very good at building,using a 3d printer so i want to talk to,you about,how to build the darth vader chest box,for empire strikes back,using a 3d printer and this is where i'm,up to so far with my chest box,i'll put the lights on turn the lights,on for you uh in a moment,this is where i'm up to there's a few,things i want to swap out and and change,and do differently and i'll explain what,those things are as i go along,but certainly this was good enough to,get me cleared in the uk,garrison now where do we start let's,talk about the actual box itself this,is a draft print uh of my,final files now all the files that i,used,i kind of designed myself uh they'll be,in the link below where you can find,them,and you can print your own chest box,certainly all the 3d printable parts,so this was the chest box that i,designed one of the key,uh things that's really important about,the chest box is it's not actually,square,it's uh slightly tapered at the top,the angles in uh empire strikes box,chest box,aren't equal so what i ended up having,to do was find some incredibly,good photographs from the original movie,i also downloaded a whole string of,different chess boxes from different,manufacturers,now some of them you have to pay for i,wasn't going to be going paying for them,um so i was able to kind of go through,their websites and see their process of,how they got to their final iteration,one of the key uh things about the chest,box is it's not even,you can't just build a square and then,put some blocks on it it doesn't work,like that,uh it it certainly tapers more on the,right side than the left side,um the curves that you find on the sides,here,aren't identical either so,i had to really think about how i was,going to replicate this,in 3d but i did,and what i also did was i wanted to this,is my version 2 back i've got my version,3 in here i wanted to create a back,to the chest box that was going to,fit in perfectly screws in the corner,and then all of the,strapping uh would be accessible,on the back as well what i also wanted,to do was have a little hole where i,could access all the electronics,uh on the back so i designed up that to,match,uh the front now if you were to 3d print,one of these,it's gonna be a lot of hard work in the,sense that you are gonna have to do a,heck of a lot of sanding,so what i used i really like this stuff,this is spray putty simple sprays there,used to be a more expensive version of,this which is about eight pound a can,you can now pick this up on,amazon for about 3.99 roughly that kind,of price,i would usually be using about three to,four,coats of this stuff you'd spray it give,it a sand,spray it give it a sand spray it give it,a sand and then i'd finish it off with,some spot putty as well where i need,to really deal with some blemishes,um i printed this if you are interested,that way up so it's flat on the print,bed which,there was nothing inside that needed,ripping out,it does mean that the top then needs a,little bit of work sanding,but i didn't have a problem with that,because i love the fact that i printed,this,in about 12 hours this version was 12,hours,this version i printed in six hours,because this is in draft so if you were,to look at this you can see,it it's got print lines all over the top,but,this was my test print so i was fine,with it the same is with my back as well,that's a test print and it looks,different,on my final version so,i originally printed uh all of the,greebles for the front,on my pla printer,but i then swapped them out so these got,replaced this is why i've got these as,spares these spares got printed out,on my resin printer so i ended up for,all the gribblers where i needed detail,and i didn't,want to do much clean up on those i used,my resin printer,so greeble is all of these little,greeblies here,i printed these on the resin printer,on here and i think these are just yeah,these are resin prints as well so these,are really nice,and clean you can see on the underside,this is resin,not pla um,these were pla you can see that on the,back but what i did was i swapped all of,those bits out so everything,now on the top of the chest box,is resin print all of those are,available,just to click on that file below to,print those,some things that i did buy one of the,key things,about building something like this is,you've got to weigh up,the gamble between what am i going to,make what is somebody else going to make,for me,for me if anything is metal a metal part,you can you can hide your crimes with a,3d print,if you use a metal part on it so if,there's real screws,use real screws don't 3d print those,screws,the reason for that is you see those,screws and you can tell,instantaneously is that 3d print or is,that real or not the same is with this,the bars that are on the front i wanted,these to be,aluminium so actually i bought these,bars from felix props i paid about,20 pounds for them now the overall kit,if i was to buy an overall kit from,somewhere i won't name any particular,manufacturers but if i was to do that,you'd be looking at about 250 pounds,plus shipping,plus import tax i decided to be very,careful with what i purchased on this,so the stickers that go on the front uh,across here i bought those they were,about,six pounds seven pounds from uh phoenix,props,these metal um bars on the front,again at 20 pounds from felix props now,those two items were low enough that i,can pay no import tax they were shipped,to me and i didn't pay any import tax on,those,so that was a win what i also bought the,only other thing that i bought,in this was the insides,so what i've done is i have an access,port at the back,i'm able to reach in uh i'm going to,swap this out with the on and off switch,eventually but it's so easy to get to i,don't need to,so i have a little xx port for the,batteries on the back and there you go,the electronics that go in here i,decided it was,worth buying those now i got that from,automatic uh props studios,uh i had that shipped to me i,can't remember how much i paid now my,mind's gone black i want to say 35,pounds but it may have been more like,50. i just,i don't remember it's about that price,um but for me it was worth buying the,electronics because they,good electronics means you can hide your,crimes with the rest of the,um chest box the,bars as well so anything metal anything,flashy i would get somebody else to make,those for me,uh just because it's good to have those,professionally made,so 3d print pla,these are resin resin resin resin resin,resin resin resin resin resin pla,so you get the part the back pla as well,the straps the straps if you were to,have,someone uh ship,you some straps like this you could be,looking anywhere,up to 50 to 80 pounds just for the,straps,if you're buying the entire kit you you,kind of get some straps,maybe thrown in or you might have to pay,a little bit extra,what i did was i live in east london and,there's,lots of places that do belts and belt,manufacturing,what i was able to do was,go and get myself some belts that,had not been a hole punched before what,you don't do is buy,black belts it doesn't work,you need to have really high quality,matte,leather on these and you want to be able,to put your own holes in so i have a,belt punch,so i could put my own belt holes in here,but essentially i was able to go and to,a belt maker,and get myself the raw leather to make,this myself,all in all that costs me somewhere in,the region about,22 pounds 23 pounds to make those,here in east london now you may pay more,or less depending on what market store,you go to what quality of leather you,buy,this is really nice leather and i was,very very surprised that i didn't pay,more,but if you're chatty and friendly people,like to give you a good deal don't they,so the way that i have this working,is it crosses over at the back,so that would go straight over my head,onto my chest and around the back like a,normal chest box,does um it fits usually about,this height so what i have done with,this is i have used,screws and little bolts on the backs,with the leather i've not,permanently attached those i will,eventually but what i wanted to do was,to be able to adjust these depending on,lock down weight um but also,if i've not got it quite where i need it,to be i can actually fiddle with,this and keep fiddling so i have these,little screws with a bolt on the back,and those screws allow me to adjust,the shape of how this fits onto my body,uh,when i'm trooping so there we go,all in all doing a little bit of maths,20 pounds i've probably paid,about a hundred pounds,maximum on this opposed to buying a kit,for 250 plus shipping,uh dot dot dot dot um i think the key,thing for me,is the resin uh prints,on a chest box you want it to be sharp,it's what draws people's eyes,uh so that's where the resin prints came,in now i want to just explain how i,painted the resin print and now i did,some of the details,uh on here so let's talk about,resin prints first so,once you have printed the resin you,don't need to use,primer filler i've found going,straight this is the paint that i used,it's the high co perfect finish,matte black that's what i've been using,um,on my chest box i've also used this,on my belt boxes which i'll show you in,another video,but where i've wanted to do where i've,basically wanted to turn,something that's resin into something,that looks,genuinely metal this stuff,rub and buff silver is what i've been,using there,and what you're able to do with this is,you put a little bit on a,on a tray you get yourself a cloth you,take a little spot of it and you're able,to just,rub it in rub it in rub it in you leave,it to dry,you come back a little while later with,a cloth you can polish and polish and,polish,and eventually you get something that,looks,uh like this,one thing i may do in the future is swap,those,coin slots out for aluminium ones,phoenix props do some really nice ones,and they're not that expensive but i've,just at this moment put everything into,probably what i want to on the chest box,right now,i am thinking about uh swapping out,these buttons on the front now,the buttons i've noticed on,the syslog detachment on the website,there's a mixture of opinions and,mixtures of things that people do,one option is to get yourself some of,these arcade machine,buttons that look like this,get yourself some arcade buttons you get,yourself red and you get yourself blue,and what i've noticed is that some uh,some guys,like to use these little buttons why,they use these because the green version,of these are on the belt boxes,and then they use these on the chest box,i actually really like them,i prefer them on the chest box but,it's not screen accurate you'll never,see,darth vader and empire strikes back,using these little,electronic arcade buttons so i,checked out on that i decided i wasn't,going to go down that route although,you can see i did buy them didn't use,them they worked out at,about four pound fifty so i didn't waste,that much money on those,what i decided to do was i resin printed,these buttons and then using,uh some of this acrylic um,paper it's it's essentially a,double-sided sticky paper,uh i had some of this lying around,anyway from a past build,and i decided to use this,uh on the buttons it's the right color,it's the right texture it's not exactly,what was in the movie now in the movie,they had,these little acrylic squares i want to,get some,uh i've yet to find anybody in the uk,who makes them if you know anybody in,the uk i would love to hear that,i've only found them in places like,germany,and that's why i've gone down this route,i didn't want to spend my money on those,but i would really,like to swap those out the way i,designed these buttons,i can actually very easily 3d print,myself,some of the buttons again and then just,put the aluminium,acrylic red and blue acrylic,in the top and so,these may even just pop out i'm not,quite sure so it's a two it's two pieces,to the design of the button the surround,and then you've got the top,so the way round i've worked out is,using this stuff now this stuff,you can buy it on amazon uh a,sheet costs no more than a couple of,quid so that's essentially,you see the blue against the white,background there the red,i ended up with a lot of this left over,from a from a christmas project so i was,able to kind of,use that stuff that's one of the things,that i would really like to swap out and,that's what i'm planning on swapping out,as soon as i find somebody in the uk,that makes those,the stickers on the front as well here,that's all the same,material it's just a sticky sheet,of this acrylic paper,and you can buy kits of these stickers,to stick,on it's cheaper to make your own you've,just got to be very good at cutting,very square stickers,so there we go,talked about where i got the electronics,from talked about,phoenix props and when i got the tubes,from,the final thing is what glue do i use so,spray i've got the matte high coat paint,what glue do i use,do you use superglue i don't use super,glue,super glue has the danger of going,running wild you put a blub on the next,thing you know it's absolutely,everywhere and you've ruined your prop,it also means that you can't swap,something out so later down the line if,you decide you want to change something,on your prop,you can't do it because you've committed,to it with superglue,so i use e6000 this is the same stuff,that i'd use on my stormtrooper or most,uk garrison 501st members would just use,this on,on all of their cosplay builds it's not,very expensive,and as you can see this is the new tube,that i've recently kind of had shipped,uh this is basically what i use e6000,you can glue,if you don't like what you've done you,can have a bit of force remove it and,not,cause any damage um but it's pretty much,permanent when it's there unless,you want to remove it so that's what,i've used on,my build now the final bit is the empire,strikes back,chest box definitely has scuff marks and,damage marks,that's what you use it's the rub and,buff so not only do i use a rubber bath,uh on some of the grebelis okay i also,used it just on the edges to make it,look like it's worn,and been damaged before we finish then,i'm gonna unscrew the back so the way,that i designed,the the files on this was very simple i,designed it so the back would screw,on and off but i don't need to access it,because i've already put that little,port,in there but just to show you where the,electronics go and how they fit,inside,one of the things with a 3d printer if,you try to align the screw holes up,for any reason they're not quite,aligning with the way that you,want them to in your design um what i do,is i just get soldering,iron warm up the,screws so they're hot i then screw them,in while they're hot and it melts the,plastic around the screw and it means,that going forwards that screw hole,matches,uh your screws perfectly so there we go,so this now pops off the back,and here you go there's the electronics,inside,i've got it very very simply just came,from automatic with the,cables coming off to a nine volt battery,i swapped out the nine volt battery for,two aaa,i have aas lying around everywhere every,one of my kick boxes as,double a sorry i have double a batches,everywhere so they're in all my boxes,so i i've just put a couple of double,a's in here i'm actually going to swap,that out later in the year with a,rechargeable,usb pen with an on and off switch on,that,which will be accessible through the,port in the back of the box,so that's what it looks like inside it's,very simple,glued in there with a hot glue gun if i,ever need to remove that if i ever want,to make another chest box print another,chest box,i can do that because i've not,permanently glued this in this is glued,in with a hot glue gun and you can,remove that very very easily,and then to turn it off i just have to,reach inside,and to take that out and remove the,connectors,so there you go my empire strikes back,chest box made for about a hundred pound,or less,something like that um yeah you can say,chris is not as good as the kits those,kits are absolutely insanely good yes,the difference is,mine cost me a hundred those cost 250,plus shipping blah blah blah blah blah,if you want to make one of these look my,files are not perfect,i've fiddled i've twiddled i've done all,sorts with them uh but they're,in the link below you'll feel feel free,to download them print them yourself,the only thing that you may find,slightly annoying is on the back,i have actually uh imprinted in their,cosplay vicar,so i know uh this is my chest box,that is still in there so you may want,to remove that or melt that out or,something like that,so there you go my empire strikes back,chest box uh for about a hundred pounds,i hope that's inspired you to make your,chest box,uh cosplay is expensive so anyway we can,make it cheaper,and it's more fun because i've made this,myself i've fiddled and twiddled and,i've really committed to making this,myself,nobody else really has had much of a,hand in it,so i'm very pleased with this uh check,out my other videos where we,look at the shins we look at the belt,boxes and we look at how to,build your own lightsaber until next,time,do subscribe do share this video,and please leave some nice little,comments uh,it'd be nice to have something positive,in the chat anyway,see you soon

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Continue the next fourth section about diy darth vader costume

How To Make Darth Vader Armor (DIY)

How To Make Darth Vader Armor (DIY)

you to kill Anakin Skywalker I did well,I guess I'm off the hook then now aren't,I in this video I'll be showing you how,to make Darth Vader's armor against,which there is only one defensive,strategy that ought to do it for this,build I use craft foam or floor mat foam,two millimeter foam super glue hot glue,contact cement or just contact cement or,just hot glue or just super glue you,know whatever you have on hand cutting,tools sanding tools safety gear scissors,razor pans and a box cutter first I'm,going to dig out the template from my,alien costume because it's very similar,to Vader since this makes it a new,template there will be a link to that in,the description down below I happen to,be using floor mat foam for this just,because it photographs better before,it's painted but if you're specifically,trying to make the Vader armor then I'd,recommend using craft foam for the whole,thing because he's got a lot of layered,armor plating on top of the shoulder,portion and it may look too bulky,depending on your proportions in,comparison with aimed English strongman,and terrible Secret Keeper David prowse,then I traced that to foam floor mats,taking care to include the registration,marks those little triangles those will,be instrumental in helping me line up,the edges I waited the floor mats down,with machinist blocks so the foam,doesn't slide around while I'm working I,cut those out with a work knife which I,continually sharpened in order to keep,the cut clean and uniform I'm also being,careful to make sure that my blade is,angled perfectly straight up and down,this will prevent any ridges or,depressions from forming in the foam,after I join the two sides I smoothed it,out even more on the Belt Sander when,you sand you'll get these little fuzzy,flash pieces on the edge so be sure to,peel those off otherwise they're just,going to create a mess when you try to,glue next I heat form the pieces using,my heat gun when it was sufficiently,heated up I pressed it over half of a,giant novelty Easter egg that I'm using,as a planishing iron or Anvil to help,shape the foam into a curved piece and,then repeated the process rolled it up,and stuck it into a cylinder transparent,for your benefit when it cooled I glued,the edges together here's a quick shot,of all the pieces before I take them,over the gluing station oh and just so,there's no confusion this is only half,Vader armor to get the other half I,flipped the template over and repeated,the steps that I just showed you next I,contact cemented them together I wear a,respirator while doing this because the,fumes aren't great to breathe I just,want to show you what half looks like,before I glue them both together then I,applied super glue to the seam and,folded it in you want to be careful when,using Super Glue on EVA foam because it,generates a lot of heat as it dries and,foam being an insulator will concentrate,that heat and if you're pressing against,the seam you can get teeny tiny seam,shaped second degree burns I glued the,halves together in the past I've left,the back seam open so that I could get,out of the suit easier but since this is,just shoulders I can get away with,gluing this shot as well now that it's,all together it's a little lumpy just,from the initial heat forming process,but don't worry because by reheating it,up partially all those lumps will just,even right out but it won't go,completely flat again because the glue,seams are whole holding it in that shape,now you can already tell if the neck is,too high which means I'm gonna have to,cut this down and then translate that,change onto my old templates see part of,the inspiration for this build is that a,lot of Vader cosplayers were trying to,use my generic shoulder template to go,with the Vader helmet that I made and,the generic template doesn't quite match,up it's I mean that's just it's a,generic thing it's like it's not,necessarily one size fits all it's more,of from one size you can make,adjustments to get it to fit all and the,first time cosplayers is not always,straightforward it's a lot of extra work,that they need not have to deal with so,I just thought I'd make it easy for him,starting by trimming down the neckline,once that was cut down I had to modify,the chest plate it's got to cover a lot,more of the chest than my original,pattern so I'm going to need to add,another foam panel just beneath it I use,this piece of scrap foam that was,actually initially a failed stormtrooper,helmet brim I don't remember which I've,built so many stormtroop rounds guys,it's a rather large piece and it was,partially heat formed in a way that,happens to fit the armor so I thought,it'd be perfect first I taped it in with,duct tape then I traced the seam that,would have to line up with removed it,cut along my Trace line cleaned it up a,bit with the rotary tool after I was,certain that it would line up I cut the,square Edge at the bottom into a curved,Edge that was better but it still needed,a lot of refinement before I got it,right see how much smaller that is,probably could have used a smaller piece,of scrap foam but I don't mind I think,it worked out I mean what else was I,going to use that for another,stormtrooper helmet don't say it don't,jinx it there's always new variants,there's always new variants next I,reheat formed it to give it a more,three-dimensional curve when I was,satisfied with the shape I glued it on,with super glue now the shoulders are,done it's time to move on to the details,I'm going to use four millimeter craft,foam for the raised portions but for the,wider recessed portions I'm gonna cut up,some gray two millimeter craft foam to,cover up the seams on the interior see,the original Star Wars costumes were all,vacuum formed so this was all like one,one piece of plastic that was heated up,and stretched over a solid Buck but for,that to work I'd have to double my,vacuforming capacity and that's not a,those aren't necessarily household tools,you know so you know foam that's much,easier to come by than vacuum forming,supplies but also the alternating colors,that I don't have to paint if you can,find foam that's the correct color to,your final product then you don't have,to paint and people will still get what,you're going for it will save you so,much time but if you're in a hurry to do,your build consider not painting you'll,save so much aggravation if you do have,the time then you should paint however,with gloss black acrylic if anyone was,wondering but for the purposes of this,video you guys don't need to sit and,watch paint dry you know we always get,to that portion of the video and it's,time lapse and I have nothing to say,over the time lapse aside from paint it,black three times over insert Stone's,music that I can't afford the rights to,probably pick out that riff now the,algorithm would pick up the Riff when I,was sure the shape and length I made,duplicates for the other shoulder you,have to be patient with super glue and,wait you know between a few seconds and,a few minutes but that's not nearly as,patient as you would have to be with hot,glue or contact cement so you know it's,much more convenient in my opinion this,is what it looks like with all the,ridges you can segment the shoulder,pauldrons if you want to however it's,only necessary if you plan on lifting,your arms higher than a force choke hold,basically if you're doing New Hope Vader,leave the shoulders attached if you're,doing Rogue one hallway scene separate,them because you've got to lift his arms,High to kill all those Rebels got to,think about these things you know in,fact after I do the test fitting which,really is what the beauty shots of the,videos are essentially a test drive,before I take them out to conventions,okay now I would love to call this done,but we've got a few problem areas still,this got kind of gnarled I'm gonna have,to clean that up with the rotary tool,and I got these really obvious seams,then I cut the gray strips to fill in,the gaps because he's got this,alternating pattern going on also I,don't want to have to putty the seams I,made this whole thing about the paint,job a few minutes ago go but really if I,had to putty those seams that would add,a couple more days to the build and I,mean you could do it it's an option but,I don't think it's necessary you know I,folded them over the edges and glued,them to the inside just to hide the,rough edge of the thicker 3 8 foam but,that's just a personal choice then I,sanded some of the rough spots that I,couldn't hide quite as easily using my,rotary tool I also did some more heat,forming because I feel like the back of,the neck is slouching a bit I mean I did,take this pattern off of myself so what,does that say about my posture that I,need to work on it bitter does have this,very you know superhero like like,anti-superman Christopher Reeves,Jonathan Frakes type posture the guy's a,bodybuilder what do you expect you know,acting's not just reading lines,basically a workout routine lastly I did,a poor man's paint job by heat sealing,it this will give it a little bit of a,shine and cut down on the number of,layers that I'll need to add when I do,eventually paint it just don't go too,long in the two millimeter stuff because,it will quickly deform and burn and,we're done wait hang on I messed up I,messed up these are supposed to be black,I just,problem solved I made new ones inserted,them and that was it well I mean it's,part of a whole costume that you got to,put together but I already built the,helmet in one of my other tutorial,videos so that was done and the robes,are just basic Sith rows you can get,anywhere but they get the job done after,much tailoring like I I don't want to,recommend these Sith robes because I had,to do so much extra Tailoring on these,to get them I'm complaining but this is,the sort of tailoring that you can do,while watching TV so oh no I get to,binge It's Always Sunny while making,Star Wars robes what an inconvenience,and now I can cosplay as the world's,worst father I don't think you'll want,this stuff the lightsaber you've got to,a lightsaber of all the irresponsible,parenting decisions this is the absentee,father you didn't even tell me about it,and besides you didn't have to cut off,his hand how might choose to raise my,children as my own business oh doth,what's a Sith and the other's a Jedi,what happens when they become roommates,it's your turn to take out the garbage,and now it's also your turn to do,laundry,on Fox thanks for watching everyone if,you enjoyed this build then you can,subscribe and hit the Bell icon to see,future prop builds once again I'd like,to thank my patrons if you're interested,in supporting the channel you can check,out the links in the description down,below anything pledge goes towards,improving the video quality prop,functionality and shop equipment and,allowing me to put together bigger and,more exciting projects for you to enjoy,on the channel let me know what you'd,like to see me make in comments down,below happy crafting see you later the,roommates,despite everything,oh boy and also the glasses well I think,I think Kenobi would be using uh wearing,glasses to do close work,oh and you didn't have to cut off the,boy's Hand by the way,this just sounds like a really,really flamboyant Kenobi,well isn't that convenient that's still,that's so Stewie Griffin,well then I guess I'm off the hook,God you are in there again with the face,recognition software,you mean you don't recognize EVA foam

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Building a Life Size Darth Vader statue on a Budget! - EFX + Rubies Supreme mod

Building a Life Size Darth Vader statue on a Budget! - EFX + Rubies Supreme mod

what is up guys today we are talking,about my life-size vader,budget build and by budget i mean about,1500 bucks,vader costumes can get crazy expensive,thousands of dollars we're gonna talk,about how i did mine,without breaking the bank,there he is the dark lord himself such,an iconic science fiction,villain now my costume for some cost,savings right out of the gate i started,with a ruby supreme costume which,i know i know it gets a lot of hate but,it really did make it for a good,base if you're willing to make some,adjustments and swap outs and,modifications,the first thing i swapped was that,helmet this is an efx helmet the,original ruby's helmet is really,suspicious it just yes you can modify it,i was not a fan,that's the first thing i did it was was,swap out that helmet,next up was the mannequin and i just,bought a cheap like hundred dollar,mannequin on amazon i modified it i cut,it and remounted that arm so it could it,could turn a little bit,most guys will buy a cheap mannequin or,two and then they'll make something that,kind of looks like this where you,bulk it out with bubble wrap and tape,and you give this guy a little bit of,meat right vader's kind of a big dude,you have to hulk him out a little bit,this seems a little ghetto but it really,is one of the simplest,longest lasting ways you can beef up,that mannequin without spending a ton of,money,now we're going to take a look at the,efx helmet uh,this is the pcr injection molded version,and i was i was a big fan of this helmet,it looked pretty darn good i got mine,for about 300 bucks in the second hand,market,did some paint and weathering it came,out really sharp a new hope,uh featured a pretty beat up vader,costume and that's that's definitely,what i was going for with with this,setup,so let's talk about the shoulder and,chest armor yes this is the original,chest armor,uh chest and shoulder armor from the,ruby supreme costume,it's been weathered a little bit it's,been brush painted to be a little bit,more accurate to the original film,but it works it works fine the way i'm,displaying it i didn't see a need to,swap it out,the gloves were a different story now,these gloves are from phoenix props,real leather they're about 180 bucks i,think,they were a huge upgrade and they were,well worth the money to swap out,they add a lot of presents to the to the,new hope version,of of this particular character so the,undersuit,and the chest box and the belt those are,still ruby's supreme costume items i've,weathered the chest box a bit and,repainted some of those buttons so they,look better the belt got a number of,upgrades to look a little bit more like,the version from,a new hope they're not perfect they're a,little undersized you have to move the,chest box to the outside of the costume,but you know what if you're looking to,save a few shekels they do work,it's passable for now and it saves you a,ton of money i can see down the line,eventually upgrading those,the cod piece was a different story the,ruby supreme cod piece has,issues and a weird velcro thing you got,to swap it out i got one from,phoenix props i think it was like 165,bucks,there are other makers out there who do,them for around the same price maybe a,bit more,that's a piece you're going to want to,swap out now the lightsaber hill i,wanted something nicer so i found an old,a new hope style force effects,lightsaber remove the blade,weathered it threw on a little mpp decal,just because i love that look even,though it's not 100,accurate and it makes for a great heavy,realistic,lightsaber to throw on his belt you can,easily pop off and,hand around if you're showing the statue,to people the shoes i cheaped out on i,got to be honest these are like a 24,score from amazon the shoes are kind of,hidden the way i'm displaying the statue,i didn't go big here there you could get,boots if you wanted to,the shin guards are still from the,ruby's costume now you're going to want,to take your time dressing that costume,onto the mannequin really getting it,dialed in i know,i still have a lot of tweaks i want to,make but you know when you put all this,together you get a pretty darn,good-looking statue for about 1500,all in it takes some tinkering it takes,some work i'm going to share some,links and info below so you guys can go,deeper on to the build that i did and,the mods that i made,vader experts yes you will see a few,little nagging things poking out,but for the money i don't know how you,would beat a setup like this,please subscribe and check back for more,videos like this soon,thanks for watching guys later

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DIY: Darth Vader Helmet - Lair of the Visionary

DIY: Darth Vader Helmet - Lair of the Visionary

hello and welcome to the lair of the,visionary where I show you how to build,your very own props and I present to you,how to make the helmet of one of the,most iconic villains in all of cinema,Darth Vader I know,for this build you'll need pencil or pen,scissors and or box cutter cardstock,cardboard - a glue stick spray adhesive,superglue marker old extension cord,newspapers and paint templates for this,build are linked in the description down,below you're also going to need lots of,reference photos for the helmet before,we get started as a disclaimer I just,like to say that this is one of the more,complex props that I've ever built and,as such that also makes it kind of hard,for me to explain everything to all of,you so I'm really sorry this is kind of,hard for you guys to follow but with,that being said may the force be with,you taking a big sheet of cardstock or,cereal box cardboard if you have any big,enough I cut straight down the length of,the cardstock then taking some spray,adhesive ice cream eases the two,cardstock pieces together,I also use the spray adhesive off-camera,on as this is an incredibly messy,process and I don't want to get anything,on my camera then taking the template,mark one I traced it out onto the mount,double layer cardstock you're going to,want to make sure you cut the eyes out,of the template so that you can properly,track the eyes out onto the cardstock,also you're going to want to make sure,to trace the indicator lies on the,template out onto the cardstock as well,and your own skill our trade and,additional 20 centimetres off of the top,but what we traced out then when that's,done proceed because the trade piece out,then using our indicator lines i let the,line nearest to the top of the mask,upward well I bet the lower line,downward then taking the template mark -,I traced it onto some cereal box,cardboard this will sit over and trace,it out once again then proceeded to cut,both pieces out so the general idea is,to hot glue the cereal box cardboard,pieces onto both sides of the cardstock,piece but in order to do this your first,thing I wanna talk glue some long strips,of cardboard onto the outer edges on the,other side of the cardstock piece in,order to gives the cereal box cardboard,something to bond to so then I offered,the pieces we made with template 2 onto,both sides of the piece we made using,template 1,then taking the template mark 3 I traced,and cut it off with piece of cereal box,cardboard then taking a strip of,cardboard 2 centimeters in width I,hot-glued it around the inner edges of,the piece who made using template 3 then,taking template for I traced and cut out,of a piece of cereal box cardboard then,automated and an angle is the p28 using,template 3 then taking template 5 traced,and cutting out of the b20 box cardboard,then I glue it over our piece like the,way you'd be here and then I threw this,entire part onto the front of the mound,then for the nose i hot-glued a strip of,cardboard one point 8 by 12 centimeters,in size onto the last like so I then a,little piece of cardboard onto the nose,area of the math in order to connect,this piece to this speed and thus,completing the nose of the math then to,the touch on the mouth taking some old,extension cord that I cut down to 4 17,centimeter pieces ironically two of each,on the both sides of the mask like so,then for the next aliment taking a piece,of cardboard 8.7 by thirty four and a,half centimeters I been rocking it to,the bottom corners of the mass so one,thing you'll probably notice is that the,mask doesn't exactly fit due to the fact,that my chin seems to be in the way to,remedy this just cut out a section for,your chin lifted through then taking the,template March 6 I traced and cut it out,of a piece of cardboard then I hocked it,a mesh material that I had laying around,onto the backside of the piece and in,turn that in Hospice's to connect the,bottom section of the mask to the neck,then cutting out some long strips of,cereal box cardboard I hot-glued them,over the neck like so it kind of act as,a cage to hold the shape of the neck,from when we come by later and people,mache over it,then to the dome you're going to want to,trace a fairly large round object on,this and cardboard for this I use the,bucket while doing this I added about,two centimetres in length to the front,of what we trace out this will give it,an oval shape so then I cut it out oh,and now you'll want the size in total to,be roughly around eighteen point eight,by twenty three centimetres inside and,so this piece is essentially here just,to hold the shape of the dome for when,we wrap some cardboard around it later,and then taking a long piece of,cardboard I wrapped it around our,oval-shaped piece like so don't forget,to cut off the excess then taking some,long pieces of cardboard box with one,piece to the front and then back at the,base of our dome then I include two more,pieces connecting the side to the top,I just kept adding more cardboard pieces,until there was no more room on the dome,and what we're essentially doing is,building a cage for us the paper mache,over that will in turn become our,finished dome so then when I was done,hot gluing the cardboard pieces to the,base dome I cut some triangular shaped,pieces out and hotends them in between,the gaps in our dome,then taking the temp with March 7 I,traced it out onto some cardboard and,then flipped it over and trace to that,once again then cut both pieces out then,rock loot both pieces onto the front of,the dome and there we have the eyebrows,and then just the large pieces of,cardboard out and hot glue them around,the dome also when doing this make sure,that you angle them so that they kind of,flare out so you'll probably notice that,there are some gaps around the lower,section of the dome which you can just,fill in by hot glueing some triangular,shaped pieces in between the gaps,then we left done you may want to cut,off some excess around the dome along,with cutting off some extra cardboard in,order to give it that Darth Vader look,and then we have a samurai helmet then,taking a spray paint cap I hot-glued it,on top of the mask in order to hold the,dome into place and if you made it this,far congratulations now onto the paper,mache before paper mache in the helmet I,gave everything a base coat of spray,paint in order to prevent the helmet,from warping or bowing due to the paper,mache paste now for the recipe for the,paper mache paste you'll need a cup of,water flour a little salt some regular,white glue and a sugar then mix,then taking some newspaper clippings I,paper-mache them over the helmet like so,and for the smaller details like around,the nose of the mask I just used some,regular white glue to paste on the,newspaper clippings your own fee I want,to give everything about two layers of,paper mache then I gave the entire,helmet two coats of a gloss black,then when the helmet was done drying,taking a transparent plastic like the,kind on a box for an action figure I,colored one side of the plastic with a,black sharpie marker,then I take the plastic onto the inside,of the mask like so then I end on the,last remaining details and now it's time,to try the helmet on and that's how you,make Darth Vader's helmet,you

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How to Make a Darth Vader Costume Part 1: Easy Light-up Chest Box

How to Make a Darth Vader Costume Part 1: Easy Light-up Chest Box

so you want to start by getting yourself,a small square or rectangular box the,box is rectangular you're going to cut,it off to make it square so you'll just,cut almost straight down you want to,leave a little bit of a tab so you'll,have something to glue on to make it,totally square then on the sides you'll,cut those off at an angle do both sides,and the bottom will just cut straight,down but an inch out from the top and so,on the sides just cut the bottoms you're,just going to push those in to make,little tabs and then fold up the bottom,and fold down that top tab and you'll,just hot glue all that together to make,the box square so once you've got all,hot glued together just take some thin,craft foam you're just going to hot glue,that onto the side of the box and then,just cut it off to square up the ends,you'll do that to all four sides so you,should now have this,then just get yourself another piece of,thin craft foam don't hot glue it on yet,just cut the edges so they hang off,about a half an inch around the out,round of the box then take a pencil and,draw two almost square but slightly,rectangular pieces on the store the,right-hand side and then you're going to,draw three thinner rectangles on the,left-hand side and then you'll just cut,those out of the foam this is what you,should have and then you'll just hot,glue that piece right to the top of the,box once you've got hot glued I'll just,cut off the excess foam around the edges,of the box then just take an exacto,knife and you're going to cut the,cardboard out from the holes you made in,the foam then just take out the pieces,of cardboard so then mix two parts glued,one part water and you're just going to,cover the entire box with that when,that's dry you'll give it two more coats,you want three coats and all those coats,are dry it gives it more of a shiny,surface which will allow your paint to,stick to it so cover the whole thing in,a coating of black glossy spray paint,and then get yourself some very thin,pieces of craft foam you're just going,to cut those so that they go around all,the holes in your box just going to kind,of line the holes,and you'll do all five of them you can,see it gives them a little bit of,dimension raises them up from the top of,the box a little bit,then take some silver acrylic paint and,you'll paint three on the left-hand side,just like that then get yourself some of,those cheap plastic folders the kind,that are thin enough to see the light,through and you're just going to use,those to cover the holes in your box,you're going to end up cutting four red,ones and one blue one measure them to,make sure they fit where they're,supposed to go over and so once you've,got them cut you'll just hot glue those,in place right over the holes in the box,now the ones on the left-hand side you,want to leave just a little bit of,silver on the out round so then you want,to get yourself some quarter-inch craft,foam which I think is the thickest craft,foam they make you're just going to cut,four long rectangles out of them and all,of them will be white except the last,one which you'll either want to cut out,a red foam or give it a coating of red,paint just like that so then get,yourself a plastic straw and that's what,you're going to use for the cylinders on,each side of the box so take a piece of,that quarter-inch craft foam you're just,going to drill a hole through it with,the straw then cut that off you'll have,a little square which you're going to,use for the bracket you're going to cut,three of those for each straw should end,up like this you'll have a bracket on,each end and one in the middle then you,want to paint the straw with some silver,acrylic paint and then you'll put one of,those on each side and just hot glue,those in place putting the glue on the,brackets,so to light this up you just want to cut,a whole summer run where the red and,white buttons are on the front just use,an exacto knife to cut the hole out and,make sure it's big enough to fit a,finger light inside of it the color I'm,using here is clear then we'll just take,a piece of cardboard big enough to fit,over that hole draw a couple of holes on,either side of the finger light and poke,those out the sharp object then just,thread some strings for those two holes,make sure the button for the finger,light is on top and then just tie your,string right around the finger light,it's just good and tight cut off the,excess and then you'll just poke two,more holes right at the front the thin,part of the finger light thread some,more string through those two holes and,then just tie that off tight over the,front of the finger light that should,secure the finger light in place cut off,the excess string click on your light,and then just slide that right into the,back of your box and that should hold,itself on or you can put a few pieces of,tape on the back so here it is lit up,you can see it just barely shows through,a little bit when you turn off the,lights it's got that dull glow that he,had in the movies so to make the box,wearable flip it around to the back side,and put some hot glue just off-center,take a long thin strip of black material,and push that into the hot glue you'll,do the same thing again right next to,that then put a little bit over on the,left-hand side and then one more over on,the right hand side toward the bottom of,the box and so the top two will tie,around your neck and the other two will,tie around your chest,you

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