diy evil queen costume
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diy evil queen costume catalogs
- Standing Collar Tutorial | Disney's Evil Queen | Tilli Boom Cosplay
- DIY Evil Queen costume/ Fancy dress Day in Bhavans School Kuwait
- Cape Tutorial | The Evil Queen | Tilli Boom Cosplay
- A-Line Petticoat Tutorial | The Evil Queen | Tilli Boom Cosplay
- Sequin Dress Tutorial | The Evil Queen | Tilli Boom Cosplay
- How I made the Evil Queen Cosplay (Compilation) | Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs
- Snow White 'Evil Queen' Makeup Tutorial !!!
Evil Queen DIY Costume 2020 | Once Upon A Time | Snow White
hi guys i'm gonna be making the queen,evil costume,and if you know i think last minute,costume for halloween so let's make it,which is which cost me nine dollars or,um some something about 50 to 60 pesos a,pilipinas,it is,so,with this so this this dress is knee,high,so um,is it's low back actually so,um eight to ten inches,backside so because long buckling gaga,we're nothing gone we have to add eight,to ten inches,from the hemline paramagaron long,background shutting down,and then make sure nothing young,pattern is,design,pattern allowance i added,about three-fourth inch allowance,ease of movement so let's go ahead and,cut,it up same step one at this above,so let's unpin this first,so same step again if,into the front side,and then we have to really lay it flat,in your arm but not a new,see i was up really late last night,making,halloween treats we're gonna have a,party later today at the beach,and my kid is really excited so i can't,mess this up,spin it again same step,um here okay as you remember,the next also and our actual the,the pattern from the dress is a round,neck so going,to v-neck,and don't forget to add,half inch for the allowance when you're,cutting it,we're going to cut it now,the figure that we want and,now let's go ahead and cut it,so now we're going to cut the sleeve,from the same pattern from the same,um dress,like this,sleeve it's because,that's the sleeve,from here,above there is passive um,five inches from here,and then like juggling the nut and go,like a v-shape something like that,you have that effect,two inches and then now i'm going to,proceed and do the v-line,so this is going to be my,this will be my sleeve,dress um,do,so,folding in half holding twice,but trust me this will turn out good,okay let's go pin it,and cut it,half inch allowance don't forget,so with our we're going to do the,details now,for our costume with our front pattern,if we figure out nothing to hang,out in waistlines from the dark,from this dark six,inches of waistline,and it's gonna be here until here,and then hang on,six inches so you hold nothing in front,not then,six inches like here like this,the illusion for our sleep like this,so i think this is only two to three,inches,width,like this,now we're going to attach this,detail it is adding front pattern,do,go ahead and do the neckline first for,this one let's see,the one in neckline attendance,front pattern or front bodies,okay shoulder is done we're gonna go,ahead and,with our sleeve,front to front,dipping them,or,so now we're gonna go ahead and finish,the whole thing and,we'll do old bodies okay so we decided,to make i decided to make another,kind of band you italic,i am only having like two hours and i,still need to,to prepare some food so here you go just,a,quick waistband para blanca uh,foreign,in a hindi seam,corner,you
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Standing Collar Tutorial | Disney's Evil Queen | Tilli Boom Cosplay
Standing Collar Tutorial | Disney's Evil Queen | Tilli Boom Cosplay
hi friends it's tilly and i can't,remember the last time something went,this smoothly,it went so smoothly i didn't film part,of it because i thought it would just be,a learning experience,which is exciting because with all of,these things i have left to do,i'm feeling the d23 con crunch already,and we're nearly 60 days out,and then it's spooky time so,subscribe for all the upcoming costume,shenanigans but let's get started on the,evil queen collar,a collar from the show is similar to the,movie with multiple points and sides,it looks like it ends around eye height,around to the back of the crown and,tucks under the dress and cape,i was also very aware that cons are,different from a show where she never,comes in contact with people therefore i,wanted to make it a bit more structural,it would need to survive both the,packing in a suitcase and getting,jostled in a crowded convention floor,that being said for the structure i went,with one millimeter eva foam flexible,boning 12 gauge aluminum wire and,grosgrain ribbon for the wire casing for,the fabric i used a white textured satin,black cotton lining the same i used in,the dress and fusible interfacing,right now the plan is to attach it to,the dress with snaps but all the,finishing details will be in their own,video as i navigate towards the end how,it will all come together so the,interfacing will help stabilize,everything,with all the materials i started to,draft the pattern,i first started with the bodice pattern,and some craft paper,i traced the color of the pattern for,the front and the back bodice pieces,lining up at the shoulder,i made a half pattern ending around 1.5,inches from center front,i estimated the shape i wanted before,tracing it onto some muslin and adding,some eva foam to understand the shape,i learned a few things from this pattern,it looked like one of those giant,lizards with the collar what are those,things called,frilled lizards so i both,trimmed down the height and made the top,in uniform slightly curved shape with my,hip curve,second is there was too much volume it,looked more like a flat collar than a,standing collar and it was really big so,i pinched out some of the material and,altered the pattern by slashing and,pivoting,to make a new one,once i thought i had something that,would work i cut it out of the eva foam,from there i started to stitch the,moaning to the epa foam,i was really nervous about putting this,through my machine but it worked,amazingly and the curved boning really,helped create the shape,after that i added the wire channel to,the top by flat stitching in the,grosgrain,then i tucked one end under and stitched,it down,then i added the wire making sure to,bend the ends so it wouldn't burst,through the case,then i tucked in the second side and,stitched it closed,the sides i ended up wrapping around the,front edges and stitching down,this worked better than expected and you,could also do this for the top for more,control of the movement of the collar,with the interior complete i moved to,the satin cover,i started by tracing the structure of,the collar as a first draft pattern and,stitched it together i also traced the,bodice pattern again and created a base,for the collar to sit on about four,inches wide,i did a second pattern that had multiple,pieces in order to reduce the volume in,the middle,sewing it together and seeing how it fit,i realized that it was bubbling quite a,bit compared to the side that was more,fitted,i ultimately decided that i did not mind,the multiple panels because i preferred,the closer fit to the interior structure,i used the same pattern for both sides,of the collar,i cut out the pieces in the white satin,and the lowest part of the collar in the,black cotton as well as the interfacing,next i overlocked all the pieces,then i stitched together all the panels,and attached the standing collar at the,side seams,next i iron flat all the seams,next i stitched the side seams of the,lower collar together,i then ironed on the interfacing because,i forgot to do that before i stitched it,together in order to put it all together,i started with a collar facing right,side up i placed the standing collar on,top and sandwiched it into the rest of,the lower collar,then i stitched through all the layers,of the neckline,next i wrestled the collar into the,sleeve and checked to make sure i was,happy with it,last i hand stitched the collar closed,at the top,and now here's the final result,i'm fairly impressed with myself on this,one i think after how long the sequin,dress took and how many mock-ups i did,of the hood,i was fearful it would take a long time,but it only took four days,and i was not consistently working on it,in that time frame,it's not perfect and i think i would,change a few things around how the,collar sits and see if i can make the,pattern into one solid fabric piece like,the parts do but overall i'm really,happy with it,hopefully you found it helpful and let,me know if you have any questions in the,comments below also check out the first,three parts of the making the evil queen,series if you haven't seen them i'll,link them down below,in the meantime thank you so much for,watching if you like this video don't,forget to like and subscribe and here,are my socials if you want to follow or,show me your amazing work,we'll see you next time,you
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DIY Evil Queen costume/ Fancy dress Day in Bhavans School Kuwait
DIY Evil Queen costume/ Fancy dress Day in Bhavans School Kuwait
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Cape Tutorial | The Evil Queen | Tilli Boom Cosplay
Cape Tutorial | The Evil Queen | Tilli Boom Cosplay
hi friends it's tilly and we're nearly,at the end of our evil queen journey the,last piece of the costume is the cape,this was fun to make because it adds a,lot of impact without being quite as,challenging as the other pieces of the,costume,i'm also obsessed with the fabric and i,think it adds a lot of drama to the,overall look,before we get started as a psa i'm going,to be hosting some polls on instagram to,get input on the final pieces of the,costume,so don't forget to follow to be a part,of the process,which i feel like could go one of two,ways well,that's how polls work,for example is it worth the extra work,to add rhinestones to the hood and,gloves or will it just be too much,follow to make sure you know when the,poll is up and let me know,now let's get started on the cape,the design of the cape and the villains,world show is a beautiful floral design,on a black fabric with a red lining,the cape in the show is also a smaller,footprint and more manageable than the,cape of the movie,which is good news for us because it,means less pattern matching,for those of you who haven't done it,pattern matching is when there is a,pattern on a fabric and each piece of,the fabric lines up and looks as if it,is one continuous pattern,determining if you'll pattern match or,not in the design phase is important,because it will dictate how much fabric,you need to purchase for example this,pattern has a vertical pattern repeat of,19.2 inches and i had to factor that,into how many yards of fabric i needed,i couldn't find an exact match for the,show fabric but i found a beautiful,velvet fabric with gold foil flowers so,we'll use this as our fashion fabric i,used a red satin for the lining the same,non-shiny side i used for the sleeves,interfacing and thread,with our materials collected and overall,design i moved on to drafting the,pattern,when dropping the pattern i wanted to,minimize the amount of seams to avoid,pattern matching i originally drafted,the cape in two pieces but found the,fabric was sitting oddly at the,shoulders which i did not like,as i draped i looked back at the,reference pictures and saw there was a,scene towards the front here that i,hadn't previously noticed,it's a bit challenging when the image,quality varies between my references,this seam allows the fabric to better,flow over the shoulders and i followed,where to place that seam based on how,the fabric wanted to sit,i then traced it onto kraft paper trued,up the pattern and had the completed,half pattern,if you do not want to draft your own,pattern store bot is fine,i've never used the patterns personally,but i think simplicity 8721 or 5794,would be good options,here's what my pattern ended up looking,like it has two back pieces to be,stitched together at center back and the,two front pieces stitched to add the,clasp at the front to better fit around,the shoulders,i first cut out the lining in the red,satin and overlocked all the pieces,i then cut out the interfacing,i then ironed the seams flat on the,lining before ironing that interfacing,on which i did after overlocking and,stitching it together again,because i keep forgetting about it but,you could also put on the interfacing,before stitching on the front pieces,for the velvet fabric i first planned,out where i wanted the pattern to be on,the cape this step is important because,it can be odd or awkward if the pattern,is in a weird spot,i wanted the large flowers to start,around these shoulder blades to not get,cut off at the top,once i liked how the flowers were,positioned i cut out one side of the,cape first,another difference in cutting out a,large pattern fabric like this is that i,cut right side up in order to see the,pattern i usually cut my fabric with the,right side down to avoid any pencil,markings on the outside of the fabric,with the first eye cut out i then found,where it matched on the fabric to make a,continuous pattern when you find where,to line it up make sure there is plenty,of space for the second side to be cut,out on the fabric,i then carefully pinned on the cut out,fabric piece using plenty of pins to,line up each foil spot,next my pattern piece included seam,allowance so i had to factor that into,how the second was going to be cut out,my seam allowance was a quarter of an,inch at center back,so to account for that seam allowance i,had to move my pattern piece twice that,1.5 inches total,this will make sure that when we stitch,together the patterns line up on the,seam rather than at the edge of the,fabric,once the second pattern piece is pinned,on the fabric you can then remove the,first piece in order to cut,with the pieces cut out i then overlock,the fashion fabric,before carefully pinning,my strategy for pinning was to,perpendicular pin at the foil flowers,then i parallel pinned further into the,piece to reduce the fabric's ability to,shift while i sewed,i machine stitched the center back,slowly and then the shoulder seams for,the velvet and the lining since the,fabric had some stretch i had to be,careful here,i don't think i've been that nervous or,slow at sewing a straight line since i,started sewing,mine isn't perfect but it's pretty close,if you want to have a bit more control,you can hand stitch first then match up,the lining to the fashion fabric right,sides together and stitch together at,each side and straps and neckline,next i cut off the corner seam allowance,to reduce both,and clipped into the neckline seam,allowance curve to have everything lay,flat when it was turned right side out,last you may have noticed that i have,not completed the brooch clasp at the,front of her cape i'm finalizing how i,want that to look so that will be,completed in a future final details,video,with it right side out i placed it onto,a dress form and admired it,and i'll keep admiring it for the next,week,it's place there for the fabric to sit,the same way it'll be worn the fabric,needs to stretch now before it's hemmed,if it stretches after you hem you'll see,the rolling like we had the silvi cape,because the lining stretched less than,the outside fabric,i've seen folks recommend anywhere from,24 hours to 2 weeks of settling before,having,my shoes arrive this week and once i do,i can work on having the dress,finalizing all the fastenings including,the snaps and hooks for the cape,and i'm going to try to wait as close to,the two weeks of hang time as possible,but it'll largely depend on when the,photo shoots going to happen so,subscribe,to see how everything turns out,in the meantime you can watch the first,four parts of making my evil queen,cosplay on youtube now i will link the,playlist down below and follow my,socials for the polls and see the fun,updates behind the scenes and photos,see you next time
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A-Line Petticoat Tutorial | The Evil Queen | Tilli Boom Cosplay
A-Line Petticoat Tutorial | The Evil Queen | Tilli Boom Cosplay
hi it's tilly and i'm starting a brand,new cosplay,i'm both extremely excited and nervous,i haven't made a lot of these types of,garments before so this is going to be,an adventure,i'm making the evil queen from snow,white but i'm doing the most,extra and wonderful version of her,outfit,it's from the disney villain world show,at tokyo disneysea,the evil queen herself said i could use,her photos for reference in this video,and they do say that imitation is the,highest form of flattery,another thing that my costuming,professor always says is to build things,from the inside out so part one of this,adventure,is going to be the a-line petticoat,let's get started,let's first talk about the design it's,hard to see in about a hundred percent,of these photos because the bar,is conveniently placed at her waist but,it is in fact smooth much like her other,costumes throughout the park,her skirt looks fairly basic but i,wanted to make it nice and full,so i decided to make it into a circle,skirt,the dress itself is smooth at the waist,so i didn't include,any gathering there the silhouette,is a line so the plan is to add two,tiers of gathering at the bottom,for flair and volume and that's it,next we'll talk materials i like cotton,petticoats a lot compared to other,materials,such as tulle or taffeta it's easier to,work with and not very scratchy,let's be real is scratchy something you,really want for 12,plus hours at a con i don't think so,i chose a black cotton broadcloth that,is 60 inches wide for my fabric,i first washed and ironed it to prep,other materials needed were grosgrain,for the waistband,hooks and bars interfacing all-purpose,thread,and top stitch heavy duty thread i'll,put a list of recommended non-sponsored,products in the description below,next we'll go over the pattern for the,circle skirt base pattern,i used mood circle skirts calculator and,created a quarter piece pattern,based on the measurements from the,calculator and my length measurement,once i had the pattern i cut the two,back pieces,and the front piece on the fold,next we'll go over the construction,first i overlocked the raw edges on the,skirt panels,i stitched together the side seams and,the back seam,when stitching the back seam only stitch,to where the placket will be,putting on the placket was a struggle,i definitely haven't done that in about,seven years,but the general idea of what i did here,was a continuous placket,plackets are used when an opening to a,garment has a tight fit,such as a skirt at the waistline or at a,sleeve cuff,they provide structure and strength to,the opening,while putting on or taking off the,garment,continuous plackets can be made on a,seam or slash,and it's made in one long rectangular,piece,for additional strength i'd cut out a,second rectangle in interfacing,and iron together it's first stitched on,one side,the raw edges are folded in and stitched,on the other side,via top stitching or you can stitch in,the ditch for a cleaner look,last you can do a top stitch on the,overlapped side,it can be challenging to make sure it's,clean and that the apex of the placket,doesn't have any additional tucks take,it slowly,and you'll get it let's go over it one,more time,as i demonstrate on my own petticoat i,measured out 2x the length of the,placket,i cut it out on the bias and then ironed,on the interfacing,next i trimmed away the seam allowance,in the skirt where the placket would go,to a quarter inch,i sewed the wrong side of the fabric to,the right side of the placket,and then iron the seam allowance towards,the inside of the placket,and i ironed the quarter inch seam,allowance in as well,on the other side from there fold the,placket in half,and your raw edge will be hidden iron,and stitch into place,and then top stitch the overlapped side,of the placket,to hold it in place definitely not,perfect but the placket was done,so i moved on to the waistband for the,waistband i'll first demonstrate on some,scraps,i've marked the wrong side of the fabric,and my internal grosgrain ribbon with an,x,stitch the wrong side ribbon down at the,waist first,flipping it to the right side i'll put,on the second grosgrain ribbon,by stitching it at the top last,stitch the right side grosgrain down at,the waist,from there tuck in the raw edges of the,grosgrain on each side,and stitch down once more i'll show you,on my own petticoat as well,i cut out my waist measurement plus four,inches for the overlap,stitching on the wrong side ribbon first,at the waist,then stitch the right side ribbon onto,the top of the wrong side ribbon,and then to the skirt itself,this will help make sure the stitching,on the outside is neat,i then folded in the raw edges of the,grosgrain and stitched them down as well,from there i hand sewed the hooks and,bars on as the closures,i finished off the circle skirt with a,quarter inch hem,at the bottom,next we'll go over the tiers in order to,clarify what i mean by segments,let's go over the petticoat math i'm,going to keep things simple and use even,numbers here,since everyone's math is going to be a,little bit different,here i'm using 150 inches as the,circumference of the circle skirt,where the top tier will be placed and,250,inches for the second tier placement,from there i know i want 2x the length,of that amount,in order to have a full amount of,gathers,you could optionally also use a 1.5 x,multiplier instead if you want a little,bit less fullness,starting with the top tier i'll take,that 150,inches in circumference and multiply it,by 2 to get,300 inches total i'll then,divide that 300 by my fabric width,which is 60 inches to get five segments,that i will need in my petticoat tier,for the second tier i'm going to do the,same math,and do 250 multiplied by 2 to get,500 inches total i'll take the 500,inches,and divide it by 60 which is my fabric,width,to get 8.3 here i decided to round up to,nine,which i did for both of my tiers in,order to make sure i have proper,fullness,as well as over compensate for any,seam allowance that i did not include in,the 60 inch width,math i personally wanted really large,tiers,so i made them 12 inches wide with seam,allowance,i measured 11 inches up from the hem of,the bottom tier,and 9 inches above that for the top tier,with some overlap,at 2x the bottom tier i needed eight,segments,and the top had six so i cut out all of,the strips,and was ready to put it together after,overlocking the top of the tier,i then hemmed the bottom after the,struggle to hand the circle skirt i,consulted a friend,and she recommended stay stitching first,which i completely forgot about,this is why i'm doing this this is why,documentation is a good thing,to stay stitch i did a row of stitching,at a stitch length of four,a quarter inch from the raw edge then i,folded the raw edge,in and ironed along the stay stitching,line,next i turned up the ironing and ironed,again to hold it in place,then i returned to a two and a half,stitch length,and stitched it in place and she was,right it was so much easier,i then used the top stitch heavy duty,thread in my bottom,and regular thread at the top of my,machine and stitched in two rows of,gathering lines,at the longest stitch like setting this,helped make sure my lines were steady,so that they wouldn't break the first i,put right at the edge of the overlock,and the second i did a quarter inch,below that,doing this in sections helped me make,sure that the gathers were even,and as a pro tip i like to do my,gathering in sections rather than,all the way around in case the line,breaks,that way if it does happen you won't,have to do it all over again,to attach the bottom tier i segmented,the skirt bottom tier,circumference into eight together,hold the two bottom heavy duty threads,in one hand,and gently slide the fabric along the,lines,careful not to sew your gathering lines,too close together,or the fabric won't be able to slide,through,other things to watch out for include,pulling too hard,and breaking a line or losing a thread,out the other side of your gathering,line,i also like to use parallel pinning in,order to make sure i'm evenly dispersing,the gathers,and i can stitch over top of them,and top stitched that tier down at the,second gathering line,and the first tier's finished i then did,the same steps,for the second tier and finished,i now have a very full and swooshy,petticoat,i'm very excited for this project,honestly,for my first petticoat i'm over the moon,with how this turned out,i was really intimidated to make it due,to all of the ruffles but it was super,fun and actually pretty straightforward,if you're interested in seeing evil,queen come together please like and,subscribe,to know when the next part is finished,and let me know your favorite disney,villain in the comments below,we'll see you next time
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Continue the next fifth section about diy evil queen costume
Sequin Dress Tutorial | The Evil Queen | Tilli Boom Cosplay
Sequin Dress Tutorial | The Evil Queen | Tilli Boom Cosplay
hi friends it's tilly and today's,tutorial is part three of the evil queen,cosplay the dress if you haven't seen,the a-line petticoat or the gloves and,hood tutorials you can check them out in,the description below let's get started,we'll start by going over the design her,main dress from the tokyo disney sea,show villains world is similar to the,movies with a tight fitting bodice large,sleeves and a-line skirt,i decided to piece together three,different patterns to get the look i,wanted,first the bodice is from mccall's,pattern number 4948,i've used it before in my alice in,wonderland dress and i like how it fits,the skirt pattern i drafted myself over,top the petticoat,it's designed in multiple panels to,match the seams and darts of the bodice,last the sleeve pattern is simplicity,1045 i altered that pattern by,shortening the sleeves about seven,inches total for the sequin fabric and,added a three inch wide trim,i wanted it to hit at my wrist when,finished in order to still see her,gloves,however if you want a simpler look but,do not want to alter or put together any,patterns i would work off of simplicity,1045,with the design planned out i then,sourced my fabric which was great,until i changed the sequin fabric last,minute,so let's talk about the materials and,why this change derailed the project for,eight months,let's talk about that sequin fabric i,originally purchased this sequin founder,because at the time i was sourcing my,materials it was the best color match in,a sequin i could find i thought it would,look good with a purple lining,underneath it,but then i was walking around joanne's,and i found this,it was stunning a heavy duty sequin,similar in shape color and iridescence,to my source material and i thought long,and hard in the store about pivoting,i ultimately purchased all the new,sequin fabric in stock and then had to,go to another joanne's location and buy,all their stock too so,any ideas of what to do with this extra,purple fabric or if i just sell it let,me know in the comments,while these are both sequined fabrics,there are significant differences,between these two but it comes down to a,few points,the one i used has a nap or a direction,to the fabric so i had to cut all the,pieces out in the same direction which,can lead to more waste and material cost,for a large sequin like this it's,typically not recommended that you have,any darts or gathers and ideally a,smaller number of seams and as we just,discussed in my designs i have a lot of,darts and seams,for a tight fit such as at the bodice or,the arms eye it's recommended to remove,the sequins from the seam allowance,prior to sewing first hand stitching,then by machine,last,broken needles just it's going to happen,a lot,so if you don't want to deal with all,that i'd go with an easier fabric to,work with such as this one for everyone,else,buckle up,i will put a list of materials below,none of which are sponsored for this,tutorial you will need black lining,fabric i use a black cotton gold fabric,for the sleeve trim i used a gold satin,red lining for the sleeves i used a red,satin a zipper small snips that are not,your thread snips thread pinking shears,chain needles elastic and sequin fabric,i pre-washed all the fabric to prep and,ironed everything except for the sequin,fabric,the lining of the dress is cut out in,the black cotton,and the sleeves in the red satin,the gold trim at the sleeves i cut out,in a seven inch width on the bias,they will be folded in half and include,a half inch seam allowance to give us,our three inch trim,i wanted the sequins to be all in the,downward direction on each piece i,recommend following the sequin line,downwards along the grain line to try,and make sure you are square when,cutting out your pattern pieces,cut out the sequins with regular,non-fabric scissors that you don't mind,getting dulled,the fabric can wiggle on you as you do,this keeping the fabric taut helps,and just know sequins will fly,everywhere and get everywhere and just,follow you around,once everything is cut out you can prep,the sequin pieces,to help with the fit i removed the,sequins from all of the bodice seams and,darts at the arms eye and top of sleeve,and at the waist,i did this to help with a close fit but,other seams that were a bit more flowy i,found it was okay not removing the,sequins however they can get stuck in,the seams that way they can also be,sharp and damage other fabrics which is,why a lining is important,first i'll show you the method i used on,a scrap piece of fabric i added a stay,stitch line and a contrasting color at,each seam when you can try to feed the,sequin fabric through the machine in the,direction of the sequins to avoid,getting stuck in the machine or on the,dog feeds,if you can't sew in the direction of the,sequins go slowly and manually push the,sequins out of the way and free any,sequins that gets stuck in the feet as,needed,i then used fray block to make sure the,fabric wouldn't fray as i was working,with it to remove the sequins place a,rag or towel under the fabric to protect,your table from any running color,once dry take small snips that are not,your thread snips and clip the sequin,itself to remove you can try to snip the,thread holding the row of sequins on the,fabric but i was worried about the,fabric integrity so i snipped the,plastic of each sequin at the top and,pulled it off,i do not recommend cutting any sequins,partially the sharp edge can damage your,dress or lining,now you can listen to a podcast watch,your favorite disney movies or all 15,seasons of criminal minds because all of,the clipping is repetitive and part of,the reason it took so long,i removed the sequence also from the,center back and the back of the skirt,where the zipper will be placed,i removed some extra around the zipper,to make sure it wouldn't get caught,since i know the cape will cover it,last search the raw edges,for the edges that have sequins in them,i ran them through my machine slowly and,used chain needles in my machine,with all the pieces ready we can finally,put this together,the second reason that the sequin fabric,can take some time is hand stitching i,find hand stitching to be extremely,helpful to make sure you don't trap any,sequins in the seam,it also helps to make sure they don't,push the fabric around while you're,trying to sew as a note all steps,outlined here will be done for the,lining but you do not need to hand,stitch the lining in each step for the,lining steps only you'll need to iron,the seams,starting with the bodice i hand stitch,the darts on both the front and back,before machine stitching,then stitch the side seams and shoulder,seams together,then i stitched together the skirt,panels since i left the sequins in the,seam allowance i carefully machine,stitched with a g needle,going slowly will help reduce the risk,of a needle breaking,attach the bodice at the waist by hand,and then machine stitch,then attach the zipper to the outer,dress only,in some cases it can be hard to hand,stitch or machine stitch with the,sequins i found flipping the sequins and,taping them down with scotch tape kept,them out of the way without damaging,them,next i stitched together the sleeves at,the side seams,measure the length of the sleeve and,make the gold trim that way,i found it easier to iron in half,stitch the two sides together in the,seam allowance before stitching to the,sleeve in this step i used the tape to,help move the sequins out of the way and,did not need to hand stitch this step,in the reference photos i found she has,an elastic band to make sure the outer,sleeve doesn't move too far up her arms,when she raises them,so i added a loop about two to three,inches on each side of the upper sleeve,seam,i then added a gathering line at the cap,of the sleeve and left a long tail,gathering lines are not recommended for,sequins and you can alter the sleeve to,better fit within the arm size since it,is from two different patterns but i,knew the cape would lay over the top,anyways so i did a bit of gathering,gather the top of the sleeve and pin in,place,hand stitch the sleeve into the bodice,first before machine stitching,to attach the lining to the dress first,attach at the neckline from there to,help it lay flat trim the seam allowance,with pinking shears and clip into the,seam allowance as needed,i then hand stitched the lining to the,bodice at the zipper,last i hand stitched the sleeve lining,to the sleeves tucking in the seam,allowance,as an additional detail i added this,gold and red curtain tassel as her belt,full disclosure i haven't picked my,shoes yet so i haven't done the hem i,imagine that why we'll have to do more,sequin removal and hand stitching but,i'll update you in a future video on how,that goes but for now here's the reveal,so,this was a doozy thanks for sticking,with me until the end hopefully you,found this helpful and let me know if,you have any questions in the comments,below also check out part one and two if,you haven't seen them,in the meantime thank you so much for,watching if you like this video don't,forget to subscribe and here are my,socials if you want to follow or show me,your amazing work,see you next time,you
After seeing the fifth section, I believe you have a general understanding of diy evil queen costume
Continue the next sixth section about diy evil queen costume
How I made the Evil Queen Cosplay (Compilation) | Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs
How I made the Evil Queen Cosplay (Compilation) | Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs
Hi friends, it's Tilli.,And welcome to the making of my Evil Queen cosplay.,I'm extremely excited because she's by far the most complex costume,I've ever made, as well as the one I am most proud of.,I think she is definitely the best costume I've made in my costuming journey.,I'm excited to share with you this whole compilation that includes,the petticoat and under layer all the way through to the finishing details.,If you enjoyed this video, don't forget to subscribe.,My goal is to reach a thousand subscribers and it would be incredible to,have you along. So let's get started.,Part one of this adventure is going to be,the A-line petticoat.,Let's first talk about the design.,It's hard to see in about 100% of these photos,because the bar is conveniently placed at her waist.,But it is, in fact smooth.,Much like her other costumes throughout the park.,Her skirt looks fairly basic, but I wanted to make it,nice and full, so I decided to make it into a circle skirt.,The dress itself is smooth at the waist,,so I didn't include any gathering there.,The silhouette is A-line, so the plan is to add,two tiers of gathering at the bottom for flair and volume.,And that's it.,Next, we'll talk materials.,I like cotton petticoats a lot compared,to other materials such as tulle or taffeta.,It's easier to work with and not very scratchy.,Let's be real.,Is scratchy something you really want for 12 plus hours at a con?,I don't think so.,I chose a black cotton broad cloth,that is sixty inches wide for my fabric.,I first washed and ironed it to prep.,Other materials needed were gross grain for the waistband, hooks and bars,,interfacing, all purpose thread, and top stitch heavy duty thread.,I'll put a list of recommended products in the description below.,Next, we'll go over the,pattern for the circle skirt base pattern.,I used the Mood Circle Skirt calculator and created a quarter piece pattern based,on the measurements from the calculator and my length measurements.,Once I have the pattern, I cut the two back pieces,and the front piece on the fold.,Next, we'll go over the construction.,First, I overlocked the raw edges on the skirt panels.,I stitched together the side seams and the back seam.,When stitching the back seam, only stitch,to where the placket will be.,Putting on the placket was a struggle.,I definitely haven't done that in about seven years.,But the general idea of what I did here was a continuous placket.,Plackets are used when an opening to a garment has a tight fit,,such as a skirt at the waistline or at a sleeve cuff.,They provide structure and strength to the opening,while putting on or taking off the garment.,Continuous,plackets can be made on a seam or slash, and it's made in one,long rectangular piece for additional strength.,I cut out a second rectangle in interfacing and ironed together.,It’s first stitched on one side.,The raw edges are folded in and stitched on the other side via top stitching.,Or you can stitch in the ditch for a cleaner look.,Last, you can do a top stitch on the overlap side.,It can be challenging to make sure it's clean,and that the apex of the placket doesn't have any additional tucks.,Take it slowly and you'll get it.,Let's go over it one more time.,As I demonstrate on my own petticoat.,I measured up 2x the length of the placket.,I cut it out on bias and then ironed out the interfacing.,Next I trimmed away the seam allowance in the skirt where the placket,would go to a quarter inch.,I sewed the wrong side of,the fabric to the right side of the placket.,And then ironed the seam allowance towards the inside of the placket,and ironed the quarter inch seam allowance in as well on the other side.,From there, fold the placket in half and your raw edge will be hidden.,Iron and stitch into place,and then top stitch the overlapped side of the placket to hold it in place.,It’s definitely not perfect, but the placket was done.,So I moved on to the waistband.,For the waistband I will first demonstrate on some scraps.,I’ve marked the wrong side of the fabric and my internal grosgrain ribbon with an x,stitched the wrong side ribbon down at the waist, first.,Flipping it to the right side.,I'll put on the second grosgrain ribbon by stitching it at the top.,Last stitch the right side grosgrain down at the waist.,From there, tuck in the raw edges of the gross grain on each side and stitch down,once more.,I'll show you on my own petticoat as well.,I cut out my waist measurement plus four inches,for the overlap,,stitching on the wrong side, ribbon first at the waist,,then stitch the right side ribbon,onto the top of the wrong side ribbon,and then to the skirt itself.,This will help make sure the stitching on the outside is neat,and then folded in the right edges of the gross grain and stitch them down as well.,From there I hand-sewn the hooks and bars on as the closures.,I finish off the circle skirt with a quarter,inch hem at the bottom.,Next, we go over the tiers in order to clarify what I mean by segments.,Let's go over the math.,I'm going to keep things simple and use even numbers here.,Since everyone's math is going to be a little bit different.,I'm using 150 inches as the circumference of the circle skirt where the top tier,will be placed and 250 inches for the second tier placement.,From there I know I want to x the length of that amount,in order to have a full amount of gathers.,You could optionally also use a 1.5 x multiplier instead.,If you want a little bit less fullness.,Starting with the top tier.,I'll take that 150 inches and circumference,and multiply it by two to get 300 inches total.,I'll then,divide that 300 by my fabric width, which is 60 inches,to get five segments that I will need in my petticoat tier.,For the second tier, I'm going to do the same math and do 250,multiplied by two to get 500 inches total.,I'll take the 500 inches and divided by 60,,which is my fabric width to get 8.3.,Here I decided to round up to nine, which I did for both of my tiers,in order to make sure I have proper fullness as well as overcompensate,for any seam allowance that I did not include in the 60 inch with math.,I personally want really large tiers, so I made them 12 inches wide,with seam allowance.,I measured 11 inches up from the bottom tier,and nine inches above back to the top tier with some overlap,at two x the bottom tier,I needed eight segments and the top had six.,So I cut out all of the strips and was ready to put it together.,After overclocking the top of the tier and then hemmed the bottom,after the struggle to hand the circle skirt, I consulted a friend,and she recommended stay stitching first, which I completely forgot about.,This is why I'm doing this.,This is why documentation is a good thing!,To stay stitch, I'd add a row of stitching at a stitch,length of four, a quarter inch from the raw edge.,Then I folded the raw edge and ironed along the stay stitching line.,I turned up the ironing and I ironed again to hold it in place.,Then I returned to a two and,a half stitch length and stitched it in place.,And she was right.,It was so much easier.,I then used the top stitch heavy duty thread in my bobbin,and regular thread at the top of my machine and stitched in,two rows of gathering lines at the longest stitch setting.,This helped make sure my lines were steady,so that they wouldn't break.,The first I put right at the edge of the overlock,,and the second I did a quarter inch below that.,Doing this in sections helped me make sure that the gathers were even.,And as a pro-tip I like to do my gathering in sections,rather than all the way around in case the line breaks that way.,If it does happen, you won't have to do it all over again.,To attach,the bottom tier I segmented the skirt bottom tier,circumference into eight.,Hold the two bottom heavy-duty threads in one hand,and gently slide the fabric along the lines.,Careful not to sew your gathering lines too close together,or the fabric won't be able to slide through.,Other things to watch out for include pulling too hard,and breaking line or losing a thread at the other side of your gathering line.,I also like to use parallel pinning in order to make sure I'm,evenly dispersing the gathers and I can stitch over top of them.,Top stitch that tier down at the second gathering line,and the first tier is finished.,I then did the same steps for the second tier and finished.,I now have a very full and swishy petticoat.,I'm very excited for this project.,Honestly, for my first petticoat, I'm over the moon with how this turned out.,I was really intimidated to make it due to all of the ruffles,,but it was super fun and actually pretty straightforward.,For part two of The Evil Queen, which includes,the undershirt, gloves and hood.,I'll get into,why the hood was such a challenge to the point where I made 12 mock ups.,But first, let's go over the shirt and the gloves,for the base of my under layer.,I wanted to protect the main dress as much as possible.,I know the costume is going to be quite warm and sweating through,my costume is a big fear of mine,thanks to Florida and Mickey’s not so scary Halloween party.,Just so much sweating!,To help combat that,sweating and reduce the amount of washing and wear on the dress.,I'm using a Numi as a base.,Now I'm not sponsored, nor have I battle tested the shirt,at a con or Disney World to let you know how this goes.,The idea is that it has a more protective layer under the armpit.,I will still probably end up using panty lighters in the armpits as well to help.,But I knew off the bat that making the entire top out,the velvet itself would be way too hot.,With the base shirt purchased.,I moved on to the gloves.,The design of the gloves is similar to a close fitting sleeve, but includes,the hand point starting at the wrist with the middle finger loop.,The curve of the hand can be a bit of a challenge,,so I decided to use an actual gloves pattern for the gloves tutorial.,You will need a glove to pattern off of or pattern,,your fashion,fabric, I'm using a stretch velvet,,elastic for the finger loops.,I'm using a ballet elastic and that's it.,To start, I ordered a pair of gloves,that matched the shape I wanted in the cheapest color possible.,When they arrived, I took apart the sides seams, traced it onto some craft paper,and trued up some of the lines and corners.,From there,I cut out from my fashion fabric.,First,,overlock all edges of your sleeve,to make sure that there are no raw edges.,Next we will put right sides together,and stitch the sides.,For the sleeve hem,we will do a turned hen where we'll take that overlapped,edge, turn it in a quarter of an inch and top stitch down.,I then stitched on the elastic loops by following the same sewing line as the hem,and finish the,gloves by zigzagging them onto the base shirt.,With the gloves complete,,I moved to the more intimidating part of my last few weeks.,The hood is designed to be very form fitting,and include a peak or point at the forehead.,With that design in mind, I started working on the pattern.,I started by draping and then doing many mock ups and fittings.,After some confusion and SOS calls,to my best friend in London, we landed on this pattern.,It includes two seams at the top of the head,to be form fitting and seam at the neck.,This is what the pattern looks like and completely laid flat,with the two sides of the head.,The middle section that includes where the zipper will go and the cowl.,With the pattern complete I started to put it together.,For the hood tutorial You will need a pattern or draping,material with a wig head.,Your fashion fabric, interfacing, lining fabric.,I used a cotton broad cloth left over from my petticoat,,pinking shears and a zipper.,First, I cut out my pieces with a half inch seam allowance and ironed,on the interfacing to strengthen the point and the top of the head.,I also cut out three facing pieces,that will help the point keep its shape,before you start interfacing I would do a test piece first.,Remember to use a protective layer or ironing cloth and follow,the fabrics instructions for ironing so you don't accidentally ruin your fabric.,Next, I stay stitched for just at the peak of the hood.,From there you can stitch together the top head strip to the sides of the head.,I'm going to also show you what this looks like,on a mock up because it's a little easier to see.,I have one side of the head here,with the face opening on this side.,It is attached at the neck, so it's cut on the fold,with no scene to the other side of the face.,The middle head strip is also cut on the fold.,And you can see here where the peak is,and where it attaches to the side of the head.,So the first step will be to attach that center,strip to each side of the head.,You can also see where the back zipper will be placed.,Next, we'll go over an example that I think,is a little easier to see than just on the black velvet alone.,I'll first be demonstrating how to bag out the facing.,So what I'm going to do is start with a cotton and a lycra,,which are going to be relatively similar to the stretches,of my own lining and the fabric.,Start by placing the right sides together,and pin along your sewing lines.,Next, you can start to follow the lines and stitch it down in place.,When you get to the peak of the head, it can be often hard to stitch in corners,,and it's pretty easy for the sewing machine to pass a corner.,So what I recommend is to actually use,the hand-crank to walk the needle to the point,,and then you can keep the needle down to,easily pivot and keep going.,From there, you can use the pinking shares,to keep the seam allowance to make sure it doesn't fray.,This is also a great option for,when you don't want to have a lot of bulk.,Next, this is going to be really important for the curves.,You can clip into your seam allowance to help with the curve structure,and to make sure the seam allowance doesn't get in your way,when you're trying to back it out.,Just remember to be careful not to clip into your stitching.,You can also clip the pink horizontal to make sure that there are no additional,seam allowances right at that point, to make sure,it is sharp as possible.,From there you can turn them right side out,and go ahead and press to make sure it's lying,flat before top stitching down.,And there you have a very neat and nice point.,Now we'll do the same,thing with my hood by pinking around your face.,Clipping and then inserting the facing by backing it out.,I used a straight stitch where the lining is and a zigzag,around the bottom of the face.,From there I attach the cow and the zipper,and there you have it.,It's not perfect, but it's done.,Part three of the Evil Queen Cosplay The Dress.,We'll start by going over the design.,Her main dress from the Tokyo Disney Seashell Villain's world,is similar to the movies with a tight fitting bodice.,Largely, it's an A-line skirt.,I decided to piece together three different patterns to get the look,I wanted.,First, the bottom.,This one, the colored pattern. Number 4948.,I've used it before in my Alice in Wonderland dress, and I like how it fits,the skirt pattern.,I dropped it myself over tops of petticoats.,It's designed in multiple panels to match the seams and parts of the bodice,last.,The sleeve pattern is simplicity.,1045 I altered that pattern by shortening the sleeves about seven inches total,for the sequin fabric and added a three inch wide trim.,I wanted it to hit at my wrist,when finished, and we're going to still see her gloves.,However, if you want a similar look but do not want to alter or put together,any patterns, I would work off of simplicity 1045,with the design planned out and then sourced my fabric,,which was great until I changed the second fabric last minute.,So let's talk about the materials and why this change derailed the project,for eight months.,Let's talk about that sequin fabric.,I originally purchased this in contractor because at the time I was sourcing,my materials.,It was the best color matched in a sequence I could find.,I thought it would look good with a purple lining underneath it.,But then I was walking around trans and I found this.,It was stunning.,A heavy duty sequence, similar in shape, color and iridescence,to my source material.,And I thought long and hard in the store about pivoting.,I ultimately purchased all the new sequin fabric in stock,and then had to go to another Joanne's location and buy all of their stock too.,So any ideas of what to do with this extra purple fabric,or if I just sell it, let me know in the comments.,While these are both simple in fabrics, there are significant differences,between these two, but it comes down to a few points.,The one I used has a map or a direction to the fabric,,so I had to cut all the pieces out in the same direction,,which can lead to more waste and material cost for a large sleeve of my fans.,It's typically not recommended,that you have any darks or gathers and ideally a smaller number of seams.,And as we just discussed in my designs, I have a lot of darts and sets,for a tight fit, such as at the bodice or the arms.,It's recommended to remove the sequins from the seam allowance prior to sewing,first hand, stitching them by machine whilst broken needles.,Just it's going to happen a lot.,So if you don't want to deal with all that, I'd go with an easier fabric,to work with. Such as this one.,For everyone else. Buckle up.,I will put a,list of materials below, none of which are sponsored.,For this tutorial, you will need black lining fabric.,I use a black cotton gold fabric for the sleeve trim.,I used a gold satin bread lining for the sleeves.,I used a red satin, a zipper, small snips that are not your threads, snips,,thread thinking shears, g needles, elastic,and sequin fabric.,I pre-washed all the fabric,to prep and ironed everything except for the sequin fabric.,The lining of the dress is cut out in the black cotton,and the sleeves in the red satin.,The gold trim of the sleeves,I cut out in a seven inch width on the bias.,They will be folded in half and include a half inch in the lounge,to give us a three inch trim.,I wanted the,sequins to be all in the downward direction on each piece.,I recommend following the sequin line downwards along the grain line,to try and make sure you are square when cutting out your pattern pieces.,Cut out the sequins with regular non fabric scissors that you don't mind,getting told the fabric can wiggle on you as you do this.,Keeping the fabric taut helps and just no sequins,will fly everywhere and get everywhere and just follow you around.,One other thing is cut out.,You can prep the second pieces,to help with the fit.,I remove the sequence from all of the bodices and parts,of the arms and top of sleeve,and at the waist.,I did this to help with the closet, but other scenes that were a bit more flowy.,I found it was okay not removing the sequence.,However, they can get stuck in the scenes that way.,They can also be sharp,and damage other fabrics, which is why a lining is important.,First, I'll show you the method I used on a scrap piece of fabric.,I added a stage stitch line, a contrasting color at each scene,when you can try to feed the sequin fabric through the machine in the direction,of the sequins to avoid getting stuck in the machine or on the dogfood.,If you can't show,in the direction of the sequence, go slowly and manually push the sequins,out of the way and free any sequence that gets stuck in the feet as needed.,I then used a block to make sure the fabric wouldn't,fray as I was working with it to remove the sequence.,Place a rag or towel under the fabric to protect your table,from any running color.,Once dry, take small steps that are not your side,steps and clip the sequin itself to remove.,You can try to snip the thread holding the rough sequence on the fabric,,but I was worried about the fabric integrity, so I snipped,the plastic of each sequin at the top and pulled it off.,I do not recommend cutting this sequence partially the sharp edge can,damage your dress or lining.,Now you,can listen to our podcast,,watch your favorite Disney movies or all 15 seasons of Criminal Minds,,because all of the clothing is repetitive and part of the reason it took so long.,I removed a sequence also from the center back,and the back of the skirt where the zipper will be placed.,I removed some extra around the zipper to make sure it wouldn't get caught.,Since I know the Cape will cover it.,Last search the right address for the edges that have sequins in them.,I ran them through my machine slowly and used chain needles in my machine.,With all the pieces ready, we can finally put this together.,The second reason,that the sequin fabric can take some time is hand stitching.,I find hand stitching to be extremely helpful,to make sure you don't trap any sequence in the scene.,It also helps to make sure they don't push the fabric around,while you're trying to sew as a note.,All strips outlined here will be done for the lining,,but you do not need to hand stitch the lining in each step,for the lining stitch only you'll need to iron the seams.,Starting with the bodice, I,hand stitch the dance on both the front and back,information stitching,and then stitch the side seams,and shoulder scenes together, then stitch together the skirt panels.,Since I left the sequence in the seam allowance, I carefully machined stitched,needle,sew in slowly will help reduce the risk of a needle breaking.,Attach the bottom at the waist by hand,and then machine stitch.,Then attach the zipper to the outer dress.,Only.,In some cases,,it can be hard to hand stitch or machine stitch with the sequence,I found flipping the sequins and taping them down the scotched it,getting out of the way without damaging them.,Next, I stitched together the sleeves of the side seams, measure,the length of the sleeve and make the gold trim that way.,I found it easier to iron in half,since the two sides together,in the same allowance before stitching to the sleeve.,In this step, I used the tape to help move the sequence out of the way,and did not need to hand stitch the step.,In the reference photos I found she has an elastic band to make sure,the outer sleeve doesn't move too far up her arms when she raises them.,So I added a loop about 2 to 3 inches on each side of the upper,sleeves in.,I then added a gathering line at the cap of the sleeve,and left a long tail.,Travel lines are not recommended for sequins,and you can alter the sleeve to better fit within the arm side.,Since it is some two different patterns.,But I knew the Cape would lay over the top anyways, so I did a bit of gathering,,gather the top of the,sleeve and pin in place,,hand-stitched the sleeve into the bodice first before machine,stitching,to attach the lining,to the dress first attach at the neckline from there to help it lay flat.,Trim the same allowance pinking shares and clip into the seam allowances meter,and then hand-stitched the lining to the bottom,of the zipper.,Last I hand-stitched the sleeve one and two sleeves tucking in the seam,allowance.,As an additional detail, I added this gold and red,curtain tassel as her belt.,But let's get started on the evil,queen color.,The color from the show is similar to the movie with multiple points and sides.,It looks like it ends around.,I height around the back of the crown and tucks under the dress and cape.,I was also very aware that clothes are different from a show,where she never comes in contact with people.,Therefore, I wanted to make it a bit more structural.,It would need to survive both the packing in a suitcase,and getting jostled in a crowded convention floor.,That being said, for the structure I went with one millimeter EVA foam,,flexible boning, 12 gauge aluminum wire and grosgrain to prevent the wire casing.,For the fabric, I used a white textured satin black cotton,lining the same I used in the dress and feasible interfacing.,Right now the plan is to attach it to the dress with snaps,,but all the finishing details will be in their own video,as I navigate towards the end how it will all come together.,So the interfacing will help stabilize everything.,With all the materials I started to draft the pattern.,I first started with the bottoms pattern and some craft paper.,I traced the color of the pattern to the front and the back, bodice pieces,lining up at the shoulder.,I made a half pattern, ending around 1.5 inches in center front.,I estimated the shape I wanted before tracing it on the muslin,and adding some EVA foam to understand the shape.,I learned a few things from this pattern.,It looks like one of those giant lizards with the collar.,What are those things called?,Frilled Lizard.,So I both trimmed down the height and made the top,a uniform, slightly curved shape with my hip curve.,Second, as there was too much volume.,It looked more like a flat collar than a standing collar, and it was really big.,So I pinched out some of the material and altered the pattern by slashing,and pivoting to make a new one.,Once I thought I had,something that would work, I cut it out of the foam,from there and started to stitch the mounting to the film.,I was really nervous about putting this through my machine,,but it worked amazingly and the curved boning really helped create the shape.,After that,,I added the wire channel to the top by flat stitching,in the grosgrain.,Then I talked,one end under and stitched it down.,And then I added the wire,,making sure to bend the end so it wouldn't burst in the case.,And then I tucked in the second side,and fetched a close,the size.,I ended up wrapping around the front edges and stitching down.,This worked better than I expected, and you could also do this with a top,for more control of the movement of the collar, with the interior complete.,I moved to the satin cover.,I started by tracing the structure of the collar,as a first draft pattern and stitched it together.,I also traced the body's pattern again and created a base,for the collar to sit on about four inches wide.,I did a second pattern that had multiple pieces in order,to reduce the volume in the middle, sewing it together and seeing how it fit,,I realized that it was bubbling quite a bit compared to the,side that was more fitted.,I ultimately decided that I did not mind the multiple panels,because I preferred the cluster fit to the interior structure.,I used the same pattern for both sides,of the collar.,I cut out the pieces in the white satin and the lowest part of the collar,in the black cotton, as well as the interfacing.,Next, I overlapped all the pieces.,Then I stitched together,all the panels and attached the standing collar at the side.,Since,next I iron flat all the seams,next to the sides,of the lower collar together.,I then ironed on the interfacing because I forgot to do that before,I stitched together,in order to put it all together.,I started with the collar tracing right side up.,I placed a scanning collar on top and sandwiched it into the rest,of the lower collar.,Then I stitched through all the layers of the neckline.,Next, I wrestled the,collar into the sleeve and check to make sure I was happy with it.,Last I hand stitch the collar closed at the top.,And now here's the final result.,I'm really impressed with myself on this one.,I think,after how long the second dress took and how many mock ups I did of the hood,,I was fearful it would take a long time, but it only took four days,and I was not consistently working on it in that time frame.,It's not perfect and I think, I would change a few things around,how the color shifts and see if I can make the pattern into one solid,fabric piece like the parts do, but overall and really happy with it.,The last piece of the costume is the Cape.,This is fun to make because it adds a lot of impact,without being quite as challenging as the other pieces of the costume.,I'm also obsessed with the fabric,and I think it adds a lot of drama to the overall look.,The design of the Cape in the Villains World,Show is a beautiful floral design on a black fabric with a red lining,the cape and the show is also a smaller footprint and more manageable,than the Cape in the movie, which is good news for us,because it means less pattern matching for those of you who haven't done it.,Pattern matching is when there is a pattern on a fabric and each piece,of the fabric winds up and looks as if it is one continuous pattern.,Determining if your pattern match or not in the design phase is important,because it will dictate how much fabric you need to purchase.,For example, this pattern has a vertical pattern repeat of 19.2,inches, and I had to factor that into how many yards of fabric I needed.,I couldn't find an exact match for the show fabric,,but I found a beautiful velvet fabric and gold foil flowers.,So we'll use this as our fashion fabric.,I used a red satin for the lining, the same non-Chinese that I used,for the sleeves interface thing and thread,with our materials collected and overall design.,I moved on to drafting pattern.,When drafting the pattern,,I wanted to minimize the amount of time to avoid pattern matching.,I originally drafted the cave in two pieces but found,the fabric was sitting oddly at the shoulders, which I did not like.,As I drift, I look back at the reference pictures and saw,there was a seam towards the front here that I hadn't previously noticed.,It's a bit challenging when the image quality varies between my references.,This allows the fabric to better flow over the shoulders,and I followed where to place that seam base and how the fabric wanted to sit,and then trace it on to craft paper,chewed up the pattern and the completed half pattern.,If you do not want to draft your own pattern, storyboard is fine.,I've never used the patterns personally,,but I think simplicity 8721 or 5794 would be good options.,Here's what my pattern ended up looking like.,It has two back pieces to be stitched together at center back,and the two front pieces stitched to add the clasp at the front,to better fit around the shoulders.,I first cut out the lining in the red sun,and overlapped all the pieces.,I don't cut out the interface or,I then I imaging,spot on the lining before ironing that interfacing on which I did,after overlapping institute together again because I keep forgetting about it.,But you could also put on the interfacing before stitching on the front pieces,for the velvet fabric.,I first planned out where I wanted the pattern to be the cape.,This stuff is important,because it can be odd or awkward if the pattern is in a weird spot.,I wanted the large flowers to start around these,shoulder blades to not get cut off at the top.,Once I liked how the flowers were positioned.,I cut out one side of the cape first.,Another difference in cutting out a large patterned fabric,like this is that I cut right side up in order to see the pattern.,I usually cut my fabric on the right side down to avoid any pencil,markings on the outside of the fabric.,With the first I cut out,,I then found where it matched on the fabric to make a continuous pattern.,When you find more the line it out.,Make sure there is plenty of space for the second side to be cut out on the fabric.,I then carefully pinned on the cut out fabric piece,using plenty of pins to line up each foil spot.,Next, my pattern piece could similar more, and so I had to factor,that into how the second was going to be cut out.,My similar ones was a quarter of an inch at center back.,So to account for that time around,,I had to move my pattern piece twice that 1.5 inches total.,This will make sure that when we stitch together the pattern,to line up on the seam rather than at the edge of fabric.,Once the second pattern piece is pinned on the fabric,,you can then remove the first piece in order to cut,with the pieces cut out.,I then overlapped the fashion fabric,before carefully pinning.,My strategy for pinning was to perpendicular pin at the foil flowers.,Then I parallel pin further into the pins to reduce the fabric's ability to shift.,While I showed a machine stitched the center back slowly,and then the shoulder seams for the velvet in alignment, lining.,Since the fabric had some stretch, I had to be careful here.,I don't think I have been that nervous or slow,at telling a straight line since I started sewing.,Mine isn't perfect, but it's pretty close.,If you want to have a bit more control, you can hand stitch first,the magical lining to the fashion fabric, right?,Such together and stitch together each side and straps,and neckline.,Next I need corner seam allowance to reduce pull,and clipped into the neckline in the lounge curved out,have everything lay flat when it was turned right side out,last.,You may have noticed that I have not completed,these broach clasp at the front of her cape.,I'm finalizing how I want that to look so that will be completed in a future.,Final Details Video,uh with it right side out I put placed it on to address form,and admired it and I'll keep admiring it for the next week.,It's always there for the fabric to sit the same way it'll be worn.,The fabric needs to stretch now before it's happened.,If it stretches after you hem, you'll see the rolling like we had the silver cape,because the lining stretched less than the outside fabric.,I think folks recommend anywhere,from 24 to 2 weeks of settling before having the.,We are so, so close to the end of making the evil queen.,We have just four things to finish and then she'll be complete.,Having the dress and cape, attaching the hood to the shirt,,fastens for the collar, fastens for the cape and the brooch.,So let's get started.,To finish the cosplay, you'll need the following materials.,Idris Amarok Marker eight Size four snaps.,Two Hooks and bars.,Safety pins approach and a crown.,Before I started hemming,,I first had to decide on my heel height and how long I wanted the dress.,I wanted it to be just brushing the ground so I wouldn't have to worry,about tripping or people stepping on the cape or dress at a con.,I started,with the petticoat after the peacock sat on the dress form.,Over time, the fabric had stretched and become uneven.,I first had the base layer and then the bottom tier of the paper.,I used a ham chalk powder marker to mark all the way around the dress.,I tried to look the way I it as naturally as possible.,As I went around the track marker, I used can't measure for length dressing,,so I measured four inches above the ground and used that as a baseline.,From there and measure down how many inches,I wanted remaining with an allowance.,I cut off the excess and hand by doing a quarter inch,turn temp.,I then did the same thing with the second tier,by chalking them marking down,ironing, putting,before searching and finishing them,after.,The dress had also sat on the dress form for two weeks,,I started having the lining with the chalk marker,measured down accounting for steam allowance and removed the excess.,But it did not harm the idea.,Repeat the same process with the sequined outer dress.,I then went to over lock the sequin fabric using my great safety goggles,and pretty much immediately broke a needle.,I then decided to zigzag to help prevent,fraying instead.,Once mostly lining and the sequined dress already I hand stitch them together.,If for some unknown reason you are like me and decide to hand stitch,this on the cold tile bathroom floor, I recommend,sitting on a pillow.,Then use the same process to have the cape,with the having complete.,I moved on to the hood.,I started by putting on the hood and the base shirt and safety.,Wearing the hood all the way around the shirt.,Try to keep your head neutral as you can to have the fabric fall naturally.,You may need an extra set of hands to help them,,and I recommend using shaky hands instead.,So intense so you can safely remove the garments of the pen,and then move my head all the way around to make sure,I had full range of mobility.,Once it's been in place and I was happy with the fit,,I carefully removed it and so intends to put it into place.,And you can check zagg stitch together.,The zigzag stitch will help the fabric maintain it stretches.,I also left the area around the zipper open by about an inch on each side,just to make sure I could ship it on and off easily.,I decided to fashion a collar to the hood,rather than the dress to have an easier time taking it on and off.,At first put on the base shirt and then where the collar,needed to be attached at the front and back.,One snap on each side of the front and one snap on each side of the back.,I tried on the dress as well to make sure they were pinned in the correct spots.,Once you have your markings, I used another set of safety ends to match,each garment making and hand stitch the snaps into place.,I put the male snaps on the collar and the female snaps on the shirt,to allow it to snap down into place for better levels,in the,areas of the snaps, so on through both the shirt and the hood.,I did not feel the need to reinforce them,,but for the snaps that were only sound to the velvet.,I added an or stabilizer.,The car already had interfacing and did not need additional reinforcement.,I then put everything back on and tested the placements,of the snaps.,Happy with the fit.,I next put on the Cape and marked where I wanted the fasteners to go.,I used to snatch the center from a snap on each shoulder,and two hooks and bars in the back to help keep the cape in place.,Once everything was marked, it carefully removed the garments and hand-stitched.,Each fastener into place.,I ultimately decided,not to make the brooch and crown for a variety of reasons.,The brooch I didn't really love the style of in the show, and,so I went with an approach off of Amazon and the Crown.,I wasn't sure how I wanted to actually make it,,so I ended up purchasing it from an Etsy seller who is awesome.,Allington Both down in the description below.,The only kind of bummer was the crown does show a lot of fingerprints,,but I was warned of that before I purchased it and all subsequent,fingerprints are entirely my own fault.,And with the,last stitch in place, the evil queen is finally done.,Eight months of work and hundreds of hours come to a close.,Here's the reveal.,This was by far,the most ambitious and best project I've ever made.,I'm thrilled with how she turned out.,I was very detail oriented and took my time,compared to most of my projects and she was definitely worth the effort.,Thank you so much for going on this journey with me.,If you enjoyed it or learn something new, don't forget to subscribe.,My goal to the thousand and I'm thrilled to have you all here.,I'll see you next time.
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Snow White 'Evil Queen' Makeup Tutorial !!!
Snow White 'Evil Queen' Makeup Tutorial !!!
magic mirror on the wall and then I the,fairest of them all I would love to say,it is you my queen but nothing compares,to the beauty of Snow White,I will finish her at once,Huntsman yes majesty bring me Snow,White's heart we all do now that I've,taken care of Snow White I am the first,woman in the kingdom and I'm sure you,all are dying to know how to look like,me so let's begin for the brows I like,to take a black brap paint and use an,angle brush to draw them extremely high,this is a must for a Disney villain make,sure you use Elmer's glue to cover your,natural brows next I'm going to take,this Too Faced palette that smells just,like peaches I hope they make one for an,apple too oh by the way I'm taking this,reddish brown and applying it throughout,my crease with a blending brush just,avoiding the inner corners next I'm,going to take my Holika Holika eyeshadow,crayon and apply it on my lids as a base,or a brighter eyeshadow,over the white bass I'm going to apply,this pleasant purple eyeshadow which is,just like my personality after that I'm,going to outline the purple eyeshadow,with black this is going to make my eye,makeup look fierce and striking for the,inner corners I'm going to dazzle them,by applying this gold and white,eyeshadow by the way I like to mix eyes,shadows just like I mix my potions now,to line the eyes I'm going to take a,black eyeliner that is as dark as the,night sky and the wing needs to be as,sharp as a Ravens beak and don't you,forget to darken the lower lash line,also this is very important,finally for the cheekbones I'm going to,take my hoola bronzer and carve them out,make them look very sharp and blend them,up slightly and right above it I'm going,to sweep pixi by petra Beauty blush duo,and applied for a mirror like shine even,the magic mirror would be jealous of,lashes lashes oh how I love lashes these,ones have a purple tint to them and once,I put them on it creates a nice flare on,the edges the only thing I'm missing now,is my gorgeous red palette so I'm going,to take this red creamy lip pencil and,fill it in and to make sure that my lips,are looking delicate like a rose petal,I'm going to apply part cosmetics lip,surgence lip creme in wonder lips red,but my nails are pink this nail polish,I'm wearing is called pouty by pretty,woman,to be the fair's you also got to smell,the greatest not like snow like smelling,like those seven trolls so I'm going to,take Juliet has a gun not a perfume and,spritz it all over and last but not,least I'm going to put on my royal cape,as a reminder that my beauty and power,is unmatchable a pig's heart I gotta,take care of her myself mmm what potion,should I make this is perfect I will,poison her with this Apple but first I,have to disguise myself,ah,now if you want to see if she poisoned,Snow White and the makeup tutorial click,this link and you will see it on my,second channel
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